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SNAP NOTES 



OF 



AN EASTERN TRIP 



FROM DIARY OF 



NIE DE C. MILLER 




San Francisco 
THE S. CARSON COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS AND BOOKSELLERS. 

1892 



To 

My Sisters, Nellie, Tessie and Josie, who afforded me 

THE TRIP, AND MrS, B. D. MuRPHY, WHO 

ADDED TO ITS 

ENJOYMENT, I DEDICATE THESE STRAGGLING 

NOTES AS A SLIGHT SOUVENIR OF MY APPRECIATION OF THE 

PLEASURE EXPERIENCED. 



PREFACE. 



In presenting these hastily snatched notes for perusal 
my friends will generously bear in mind the fact that no 
attempt at literary effort is intended. Having had the 
benefit of the trip and enjoyed it, I reproduce some of 
the leaves of my diary for private circulation, and may 
be pardoned for so doing since it is commemorative of my 
first visit outside the bounds of the California peninsula. 
That many pages of this little book may contain faults T 
readil)^ acknowledge and must regret, in view of my 
motto, Scripttim manet. F. de C. M. 



CONTENTS. 

Page. 

I. Over the Range 9 

TI. From Ogden East over the Denver 

AND Rio Grande 17 

III. From Denver to Detroit .... 32 

IV. A Visit to Niagara 45 

V. The City of Boston 58 

VI. Glimpses of New York 75 

VII. A Trip up the Hudson 88 

VIII. The City of Brotherly Love ... 96 

IX. A Visit with Cardinal Gibbons . .102 

X. ROSELAND AND EnNISCORTHY, TyPICAL 

Southern Homes 108 

XI. Scenes in Gettysburg 115 

XII. The City op Emmittsburg, the Old 

Homestead at Union Mills . .125 

XIII. Mount Vernon 133 

XIV. The Capitol at Washington . . .137 
XV. Last Days in Maryland . . . .143 

XVI. Homeward Bound 150 

XVII. Salt Lake City 157 

XVIIL Home Again 161 



SNAP NOTES 



CHAPTER I. 

OVER THE RANGE. 

August 17, 1891. 

THE afterglow of sunset, gleaming through 
warm folds of purple haze overhanging 
the crest of Tamalpais, steals down softly and 
silently over rippling waves of the lovely 
bay, as we, a knot of kinsfolk, seat ourselves 
comfortably in the Oakland ferryboat, prepar- 
atory to temporarily exchanging California's 
matchless clime and genial fellowship for East- 
ern scenes and society. Later, 'twixt the hours 
of seven and eight, darkness crept *' from the 
wings of night," and finds us cozily en- 
sconced in the drawing room of a Pullman 
palace carriage midway in the train of four- 
teen cars, and forming a direct contrast to the 
historical pilgrims who trod westward the same 
route in less enviable style, in the memorable 
"pioneer days." 

(9) 



10 SNAP NOTES. 

After friends, who accompany us thus far, 
have taken leave of the party, we start on the 
Eastward "tack," and ere lapsing many miles 
partake of a collation, plenteously provided by 
a thoughtful friend. 

Now, watching the Marin hills slowly fading 
into the dim distance, with the familiar out- 
lines of grand old Tamalpais gradually reced- 
ing from view, effects a sense of lonesomeness 
only experienced when leaving those we love, 
by whom we have been always surrounded, 
even though al:)sence may cover but the space 
of a few months. The shadow of gloom is 
partly dispelled by our chaperon's call to 
cheerfulness, with a gentle reminder that the 
spirit of happiness and mirth should govern 
the members of our party, whom I shall en- 
deavor to introduce to my diary. We are five. 
Busily engaged hanging hats, wraps, etc., where 
they must remain for several days, is Mrs. Mur- 
phy, worthy wife of my excellent cousin, Hon. 
B. D. Murphy, of San Jose. Merrily humming 
"Mary and John," she is cheery and light- 
hearted as a bird, and anxious that all should 
be as happy as herself. 

Reclining lazily on a cushioned sofa is her 
daughter, Miss Evalyn, who, after gracefully 
cutting the pages of " Under Two Flags," lan- 
guidly prepares for rest. A recent student 



OVER THE RANGE. 11 

with the Madames of the Sacred Heart, I hope 
for interesting conversational companionship 
in this accomplished daughter of my respected 
kinsman, which hope gilds the prospect of a 
long journey with pleasure. 

Arranging her locks before one of the many 
mirrors that line our boudoir, stands. Miss 
Maud Arques, my other cousin, a perfect 
"daughter of the gods, divinely tall," and 
lovely as an houri, her olive complexion and 
black hair proclaiming her one of "Spain's 
dark-eyed daughters." 

Darting hither and thither, to and from the 
drawing room, the life and joy of the occasion, 
a "bother" yet a pleasure, is Martin Murphy, 
eldest son of Hon. B. D., destined for George- 
town University, whither his mother is accom- 
panying him. Last and least is this " chield 
amang ye takin' notes, — and faith I'll print 
them!" Retiring at ten o'clock, I find to my 
anxiety that slumber fails to visit mine eyelids, 
and am wide-awake at eleven o'clock, as we 
are launched into Sacramento, where we linger 
a weary length of time. Mrs. Murphy and 
Miss Arques, who have not retired, are looking 
out upon the city and conversing with ac- 
quaintances. Sleep for me has vanished for 
the night, the unusual noise and motion of 
the cars having banished "nature's sweet re- 



12 SNAP NOTES. 

storer," leaving me awake, to the influence of 
thought-producing, meditative night. 

August 18, Tuesday. 

We climbed the Sierras during the hours of 
darkness, and nothing more picturesque than 
long snowsheds meets my glance of curiosity 
and interest, as I stealthily raise the curtain 
for a glimpse of the rugged scenery. At eight 
o'clock we arrive at Truckee, but must note the 
environs and town on our return trip, as I am 
too tired and unrefreshed to view it satisfacto- 
rily, in the somber gray of early morning. 
Steaming along the south bank of the Truckee» 
where romantic beauty abounds, — water rip- 
pling over rocks in frothy fretfulness, the low, 
craggy banks fringed with tamarack saplings 
and fragrant pine trees — but at these I may 
only glance, as breakfast is announced, and we 
must proceed to the dining car. During the 
meal we enter Reno, at nine o'clock. The 
dusky tribe are out in full force and glare of 
color, the women particularly brilliant in 
flashy calicoes, and heads orname^ited with 
bright 'kerchiefs, that on Arabs might be 
called tarbooshes, or perhaps kufiyehfi, but our 
more familiar and comprehensive language 
simply styles bandannas. The novel scene is 
especially interesting to a veritable "innocent 



OVER THE KANOE. 13 

abroad" like myself. I admire the valley out- 
stretching from Reno, but the admiration 
ceases when the eye is carried to the hills, arid 
and bleak -looking in their covering of sage- 
brush. A monotonous sameness of lifeless 
waste characterizes the country until reaching 
Wadsworth, on the east bank of the Truckee, 
two hundred and seventy-eight miles from San 
Francisco. Here we delay for ten minutes, 
alight from the train, stroll about, and Martin 
tries several kodak pictures. When about re- 
entering the train, I meet Mr. John T. Malone, 
the actor, who remembered me from my con- 
vent days. He was delighted to have met the 
party at Sacramento, and, upon Mrs. Murphy's 
invitation, enters our drawing room, and enter- 
tains us most agreeably. He pointed out the 
"sink of the Humboldt," of which I have so 
often heard my father speak, in relating his 
pioneer experiences and vicissitudes crossing 
these "plains." We are pleased to have Mr. 
Malone's interesting companionship over this 
" realm of drifting sand," the Humboldt Desert, 
which takes a whole day to span. He recalls 
some incidents of my earlier acquaintance with 
him, amuses us with accounts and plots of dif- 
fereut plays, and, indeed, makes us feel how 
" lightly falls the foot of time, that only treads 
oil flowers." My first letter home, to dear Nel- 



14 SNAP NOTES. 

lie, I post at Lovelocks, in the heart of the des- 
ert. Our next stopping-place is Humboldt, a 
fresh, green spot, a perfect oasis, indeed, in this 
dreary sand waste, and here we take our lunch- 
eon, enjoying a waiting of ten minutes. Martin, 
our " local artist," essayed to kodak our group, 
with Mr. Malone in the center. 

It is now 3:30 p. m. and Winnemucca lies in 
sight, a larger town than I expected to see, but 
no [more charming in appearance than others 
of the vast, dreary, sterile plain, that "lies like 
a load on the wearied eye." The name is In- 
dian, and the cognomen of a Piute chief who 
was one of several who resided here during 
the romantic era of the West. 

At four o'clock we pass through Elkon, an- 
other dese7i{ed) village of no great prominence, 
and I glance out with the same result, the old 
"bald, blear skull of the desert" still shining 
under glare of the sinking sun. 

Battle Mountain is reached at 5:30 p. m., 
where Mrs. Huntsman, a former resident of 
San Jose, keeps a w^ayside hotel, which was 
shown to us, with the proprietress in the front 
yard. The place derives its name from the 
fact that thirty-five or more years ago was wit- 
nessed a desperate contest between white emi- 
grants and settlers and Indians in the valleys, 
or river " sinks," of Reese River country, which 



OVER THE RANGE. 15 

gave the name "Battle Mountains" to the gen- 
eral range south of this town. And now, as we 
speed onward at the rate of twenty -five or more 
miles per hour, I peer backward, and, far as the 
taxed vision can stretch, I see the arid plains 
still, mapping a great territory, never seeming 
to diminish nor vary in feature, — sagebrush 
and sand, with occasional green spots, where 
cattle gather, well appreciating the dwarfed 
herbage on these pleasant places of this dull, 
desolate, sage-ridden land. My fancy wings it- 
self with thoughts of the early travelers to the 
Western slope. How many times they crossed 
the winding Humboldt! How wearily, yet 
patiently, they must have breathed the hot air 
and alkaline dust of this trackless, treeless wil- 
derness! Or, if its broad, flat bosom rested 
'neath a mantle of snow when they were wend- 
ing their way to the Western Mecca of their 
hopes, how irksome to the eye, how discourag- 
ing to the anxious heart, the outlook of their 
cherished plans! 

Ere approaching Argenta, I remark herds of 
healthy-looking stock calmly browsing along 
the banks of a refreshing stream, but looking 
as tired of the " still solitudes of the desert" as 
ourselves. Argenta (silver) is a small spot not 
worthy of note beyond the fact that, after cross- 
ing the Humboldt River, it ushers us into the 



16 SNAP NOTES. 

Valley of the Palisades, a strange uprising of 
rocky formation on both sides of the railroad, 
with a swiftly-coursing creek on the south side. 
After emerging from the canon and indulging 
in more desert land we touch Carlin, an impor- 
tant town of many thousand inhabitants. It is 
here that the Mary's Creek joins the oft- 
mentioned Humboldt. A brief pause, and we 
again bowl along towards Elko, the cattle- 
shipping point of the plains, whence the herds 
of stock are forwarded eastward. Passing sev- 
eral small stations we come upon Halleck, 
which embraces four houses on the south side 
of the railroad track, and Uncle Dan Murphy's 
large dwelling standing alone on the north side, 
as isolated of cheerful surroundings as is a 
man's life in the midst of a divided household. 
It is now late; we close our windows. Mr. Ma- 
lone has remained in our drawing room con- 
versing, but, midnight approaching, he and 
Martin have taken leave, and we retire, weary 
and heavy eyed. 



CHAPTER 11. 

FROM OGDEN EAST OVER THE DENVER AND 
RIO GRANDE. 

August 19, Wednesday. 

WE were awakened this morning at half 
past six, at Ogden, and found breakfast 
waiting for us in tlie hotel. Mr. Malone is with 
us until his train starts, when we part, to con- 
tinue the journey by the Denver and Rio Grande, 
over Burlington route, he pursuing his course 
by Central road, via Cheyenne, etc. We leave 
Ogden, the great railroad center, about half past 
eight o'clock. We are now eight hundred and 
thirty-three miles from San Francisco. The 
Weber River runs to the right of the road going 
east and the great craggy range of the Wasatch 
Mountains stands out on the left. At Ogden, in 
Weber County, Utah, four different railroad 
lines meet. The valley leading to the Jordan is 
a generous-sized plain under cultivation, and 
nearing Salt Lake City is refreshingly green 
and beautiful, with the bosky, bleak mountains 
towering cloudward to the east. Wood's Cross- 
2 (17) 



18 SNAP NOTES. 

iiig and other Mormon hamlets scatter along 
until we reach the prophet's town, a large, flat 
city, with long, tree-lined, shady streets, a busy 
population, evidences of industry on all sides, 
the general air of the place having an inviting 
charm, indescribable in such brief notice. The 
houses are built principally of brick. It is the 
largest city I have seen since leaving San Fran- 
cisco. Arriving here at 9:45 o'clock a. m., we 
are bounding through the valley, with its soft 
carpet of green alfalfa and other rich grasses, 
squares of grain fields lately cut, corn just in 
tassel, in abundance, and everything speaking 
with a voice of plenty. 

I should judge the climate to be unexcelled, 
out of California, of course. 

The rugged Wasatch Range, on our left, as 
we steam through, is as absolutely picturesque 
as the high mountains of Italy, of which we 
read, and deserves to be entitled the American 
Alps. At present these mountains are in places 
covered with a white limestone resembling snow, 
and are wildly grand beyond powers of my un- 
traveled mind to pen paint. I marvel if human 
feet have ever traversed their rocky, craggy, 
eerie heights. The valley throughout shows 
the happy results of irrigation, as the sage- 
brush flats, by its magical means, have been 
metamorphosed into flourishing, healthy-look- 
ing pastures of sweet, waving grasses. 



OVER THE DENVER AND RiO GRAMDt^. 10 

After another treat to gray sage in the Jordan 
Narrows, we come into Lehi, at eleven o'clock, 
a pretty little place within shadow of the range, 
on Utah Lake, an elongated body of fresh 
w^ater to the south of the valley. The Utah 
Sugar Company are here erecting extensive 
buildings in the interests of their business. 
The valley resembles that of Salt Lake, and 
the towns merge into each other, the next being 
American Fork, situated on Deer Creek, near 
Mount Aspinwall, whose altitude of eleven 
thousand and eleven feet casts a lengtliened 
shadow. The silver ribbon, Utah Lake, still 
stretches its thirty miles of weary length along 
the southern line of the pleasant vale within 
half a mile of our train. Provo, on the east bank 
of the lake is noteworthy for its hue woolen 
mills; the buildings, of stone, four stories high, 
attract attention. Here we alight from the 
cars and take our luncheon at the hotel, where 
we have an excellent meal, resuming our places 
on the train at twelve o'clock. In another few 
minutes we pass Springville, thence througli 
a fruit and garden country as beautiful and 
fertile as human heart could desire, the effect of 
industry and irrigation. Utah Lake is still vis- 
ible. Spanish Fork, on river of the same name, 
is surrounded by orchards and ornamental 
trees, with thriving vegetable gardens in abun- 



20 SNAP NOTES. 

dance. Here Martin took a "special" photo- 
graph, a reversed observatory, minus telescope 
lens, and even window glass. Careering on- 
ward we enter Spanish Fork Canon, the great 
gorge of the Wasatch, and come upon the 
Castilla Hot Springs, where hundreds of peo- 
ple are rusticating, presenting an enchanting 
scene as they saunter forth to meet our train, 
gayly singing or chatting, decked out in green 
garlands and bright flowers. Right here we 
are overtaken by a rainstorm, that pelts down 
as mercilessly as any boasted California winter 
showers. 

Next comes in sight Red Narrows, a strange 
construction of abrupt declivities, rocky, yet 
covered with a verdant growth, which betimes 
disappears, leaving the crags as bald and des- 
titute of vegetation as the worn crest of Ben 
Nevis, but brilliant in color of crimson chrome 
and other mineral elements. A laughing- 
stream flows at the base of the cliffs, skirted 
by willow and shrubs, fragrant and sweet. AVe 
stop here but a few minutes, then steam on- 
ward, passing Junction a few hundred yards 
further, the rain continuing until we get through 
the canon. We find the "Gates Ajar" of Castle 
Rock, and enter. The Castle rocks are of lava 
precipitation, as though thrown up by volcanic 
ernption, and present an imi)Osing spectacle, 



OVER THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE. 21 

resembling the picturesque beauty of Old World 
ruined castles and feudal ramparts in their 
beetling strength. After leaving the cliffy 
gorge behind us, we enter upon a particularly 
lime country, where kilns formed like immense 
beehives diversify the scenery of limerock hills 
covered with undersized pine trees. Especially 
interesting are the seams in the hillsides of 
variegated stone that project in tireless rows, 
like even sets of teeth or columns of books. 
About two o'clock we halt at Clear Creek to 
water the engine. Crossing the Divide, near 
Summit or Soldiers' Station, elevation seven 
thousand four hundred and sixty-five feet, we 
strike the snowsheds. Pleasant Valley Junc- 
tion, the next station, is another dreary spot 
backed by barren uplands or hills, that do not 
even afford an imposing appearance. Pleasant 
here is a misnomer. 

"Castle Gate," the great opening to the Mor- 
mon country from the East, is a novel and 
mysterious creation of rock into castle-like 
battlements of Titanic strength and magnifi- 
cence, and what powerful "bulwarks to the 
nation" they would prove in warfare, since 
they solemnly withstand without injury the 
continuously attacking elements! Wonderful 
scenery, marvelous handicraft of a powerful 
Creator ! 



22 SNAP NOTES. 

Price, altitude five thousand five hundred 
and forty-seven feet, is pleasantly located in 
sight of the fortlike buttes towards the west, 
where the strangely-formed city, abounding in 
prodigious buildings of nature's own construc- 
tion, looms up. We are here informed that 
we shall be delayed three hours on account of 
landslides on the track a couple of miles far- 
ther. Obliged to accept the situation grace- 
fully, we conclude to walk around, and are 
soon informed that we may be forced to re- 
main all night and take dinner in this less 
than one-horse town, which we do about six 
o'clock, in a small Mormon hotel. We were 
waited upon by a saucy piece of humanity, who 
belongs, I doubt not, to the prophet's creed; 
and if ever she becomes "sealed" to one of the 
elders, the elder will be the first to wish the 
seal broken. The dining room is filled with 
flies, hungry as ourselves. The improvista meal 
is uninviting, and wholly unappetitious, but 
the sound fun adduced from the occasion 
repaid for the need of strong stomachs. I 
presented Maud with a souvenir spoon of the 
memorable place, to be had at hut one Price, 
selected one for myself as a chromo for the meal^ 
as we paid triple value for the latter, and I 
conclude that Price is properly named. 

Martin is amusing himself with the kodak, 



OVER THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE. 23 

seeing which a woman emerges from a 
wretched-looking dwelling and eagerly asks, 
" Takin' picters?" " Our artist," not being cer- 
tain of success, modestly stammers an answer 
in the affirmative, and the simple creature in- 
stantly starts for her house, immediately re- 
turning with an infant, which she wished to 
have photographed. Martin was caught, but 
gracefully acceded to her request, and kindly 
kodaked the little Mormon, whereupon she 
anxiously asked if she might see the " likeness," 
and, " How much is the payf" He explained 
the impracticability of the former, and gener- 
ously waived all claim to fJie latter, clieerfully 
assuring the poor woman that tvheii he succeeded 
in perfecting the little beauty's picture he 
would send it to her. She congratulated him 
upon the pleasure ofhaving taken the virgin 
photo of the small stranger, and, in her delight, 
they forgot all about names, addresses, etc., so 
the doting mother will long wait for the 
" picter " of her darling, that can never come. 
After eight hours' delay they told us the 
sand drift had been removed, and we could gladly 
continue our journey. We retired, and soon 
the city of several hundred Mormons and 
three Gentiles was far behind. During the night 
we traveled rapidly, and, fortunately, crossed 
the pathless tracks of the Colorado Desert 



24 SNAP NOTES. 

without knowing it, and this, Thursday morn- 
ing, we awake to hnd ourselves in Colorado, 
August 20, witli small chances for breakfast- 
The first station I note is De Beque, a small 
settlement on the sand flat through which the 
railway runs. We observe the river flowing- 
parallel with the railroad, a large, wildly tur- 
bulent, muddy stream. The scenery is tame 
and uninteresting hereabout, except for pecul- 
iar bluffs of clay studded with rock that rise 
on either side in somewhat fantastic formation. 
The diminutive hamlets dotting the route are 
unworthy of comment, save for their lonely 
locations. Again, alfalfa-clad meadows please 
the eye for a long stretch, to Rifle, a railroad 
village of no significance, and on until tlie oft- 
repeated scene becomes tiresome. At ten 
o'clock we stop at Newcastle for water. It is a 
hamlet, built between craggy mountains, steep 
and rugged, garnished only with wild, strag- 
gling, stunted pines. Bowling along through 
the rocky canon we come upon Glenwood and 
Glenwood Springs, most romantically situated 
on the banks of the royal Grand, a dark, strong, 
shallow stream, at times suggesting the Rus- 
sian River, of Sonoma County, California, so 
familiar to us all. The scenery is here wild 
and primeval, at times weird, but always 
picturesque. The cliffs rise from the river 



OVER THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE 25 

bed hundreds of feet heavenward, are covered 
with loose rock kept from shifting into the 
river by dwarfed pines and roots of other 
stunted trees. The walls of bare brown rock at 
times surprise and fill the soul with awe and 
wonder. 

The Glenwood Springs are the resort for 
Eastern people who spend the summer here; 
particularly is it a Mecca for consumptives. 
Many of their tents and cabins are scattered 
along the railroad line, suggesting the comfort 
here found by these elsewhere hopeless inva- 
lids. It is a lovely, lonely spot. The hotel, of 
brown Colorado stone, is a grand structure, and 
the pretty lakelet and sparkling fountain 
most charmingly cheery and inviting. The 
country hereabouts is indeed mountainous, 
looking tumbled and disordered. Hastening 
onward, we pass through three tunnels, and 
now the rocky walls take a shelving character, 
and rise in strength and effect until one ceases 
to marvel at their towering heights, and we real- 
ize at last that we are indeed in the heart of 
the Rocky Mountains. Here I am particularly 
surprised at the massive grandeur of the 
gorge, wholly unlike anything yet seen. We 
emerge into a broader vale, through the center, 
tracing the same yellow stream coursing on- 
ward through the canon, The near mountains, 



26 SAAP NOTES. 

in their red cinnabar skin, have a magnetic 
attraction for me. It is now half past eleven, 
yet we have not broken fast, and all are begin- 
ning to sympathize in the hunger of the ill- 
fated Donner party of 1846. Having spanned 
some distance, and reached more sage land, 
I note the mountains lowering in stature, and 
soft, fleecy clouds hang in the sky, screening us 
from the garish glare of piercing sunlight. A 
post marked "Eagle" calls my attention, and, 
glancing out, I mark the green bit of landscape 
lit up by the crystal glitter of the stream. 
Giving our thirsty engine a drink, we cross the 
river and leave it in the distance. The con- 
ductor informs me that the ravine — from the 
above-mentioned post — is called Eagle River 
Valley. The views along the banks and rock 
towers are similar to those of the Rio Grande. 
My companions and self are on the platform 
enjoying the "sights" that are seen and car- 
ried away like dissolving views. We reach 
the Rio Grande Hotel at one o'clock p. m., and 
have a good, comfortable breakfast and lunch 
combined. Girls wait upon us, in a polite 
manner, and are neat as rosebuds. Picturesque 
log cabins for consumptives dot the banks of 
the stream and railroad line again, looking 
cozy and comfortable, so peculiarly adapted as 
buildings to this wild region. The mountains 



OVER THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE. 27 

to their dizzy peaks are densely clothed ivith fir 
and pine, scant of foliage, and showing signs 
in many places of having been visited at a re- 
cent date by fire. Panda, another diminutive 
sign, passes us on to a small tunnel, which wafts 
my til oughts back to San Rafael. A quiet, 
charming little fertile valley runs north from 
this spot, which is lost to the eye in the dark- 
some depths of the rugged Rockies. Wild 
flowers cheer the wayside with their bright 
presence, and are like the low, soft voices of 
cherished friends calling us down from con- 
templation of those tremendous boulders and 
bluffs that have been holding our hearts in 
awe and admiration. 

Along here we enter a tunnel so many feet 
in length that it takes four minutes to pass 
through; then comes Tennessee Pass tunnel, 
which is noted by Mrs. Murphy as I slept, the 
drowsy influence having possessed me for the 
first time. I awake with a chill, and, noting the 
altitude, am physically aware that the raw air 
is due to the unmelted snow on the sculptur- 
esque chain of the Rockies surrounding us, the 
first snow we have seen. A small hamlet, Bar- 
netts, rapidly followed by Riverside, and we 
glide through pleasant plains, with the Denver 
and Rio Grande Narrow Gauge on our left. 
The rocks are less precipitous and imposing. 



28 SXAP XOTES. 

Before us spread vast fields of potatoes and 
grain, with a clear, limpid stream flowing 
through them. In one field hay cutting had 
begun. The country now resembles California, 
since crossing the range. The tortuous Mar- 
shall Pass is entrancing in its fear-inspiring 
grandeur. At 5:30 p. m. we are brought into 
Salida, and dinner announced, of which we 
partake con gusto. "Monte Christo Hotel" be- 
longs to the Rio Grande Company, and the 
meal was the best we have had since leaving 
California, even before "the buffet went on 
with Malone," at Ogden. 

Walking around for a few minutes, Maud 
and I swell our spoon collection, and all re- 
enter the train, after a last glance at the Swiss 
style and setting of the hotel in the midst of 
created beauty. We hear a puff and a screech 
and aw^ay w^e go, leaving Salida, on the Arkan- 
sas, beautifully embedded in leafy solitudes. 
My girl cousins and self are seated upon the 
platform and steps to view the country, and I 
note Texas Creek as one of the stations. We 
are speeding, they say, at the rate of twenty-five 
miles per hour, and almost repeating the scen- 
ery of the Rio Grande in Texas Creek Canon. 
We arrive at a place lettered " Saloon," ivhat- 
ever that means , six miles from the Royal Gorge 
of the Arkansas, which we are anxiously wait- 



OVEIi THh: DENVER AND RIO GRANDE. 29 

ing to behold. The sable wings of night are 
silently folding, yet we hope to view the gorge- 
like storied " Melrose " by moonlight. The 
river is on our right, wild and wide, seething, 
tumbling over broken rocks, with fantastic 
shadows lurking o'er its troubled bosom, whilst 
it roars in hollow tones to the echo of the wind- 
ing abyssmal chasm. Canon City, a prettily- 
set place of several thousand inhabitants, on 
the Arkansas, backed by mountains, is happily 
a breathing-place after the suppressed emotion 
inspired by the most sublimely grand vista in 
the scenic histor}^ of wonderful Colorado. The 
magnificent bluffs of the Royal Gorge loom sky- 
ward three thousand feet, some of them over- 
hanging the train, rendering the wild landscape 
charmingly fascinating in its awful danger. 

Silence falls upon the trio ; awe is expressed 
in every feature; and I look up w^ith a sense of 
devotion, picturing the sky reaching down to 
kiss the ambitious brows of the lofty cliffs, 
leaving breath thereon in form of curling 
clouds. These almost star-high reaching ram- 
parts of God's solid masonry climb higher and 
higher, each more imposing in imperial su- 
premacy than the last, on either side of the 
passageway through which the river and our 
iron horse race. 

As we, in tremorous fear, continue to gaze 



30 SA'^AP NOTES. 

upward, in all the dignity of silence, at God^s 
matchless work, the night clouds lower, but an- 
other bend in the high-walled canon shows the 
moon bursting in brilliant effulgence of shim- 
mering silver upon the sinuous river, over 
which is flung, in clearly mirrored outlines, 
branches and limbs of poplar, willow, and Cot- 
tonwood, making a weird picture for black and 
white effect. 

We enter the drawing room, and I sit by the 
window watching all the moon reveals. I 
pleasurably note the rippling, dimpling, purl- 
ing river running beside us, then curving away 
to hide amid trees and shrubbery, the moon 
rays glittering upon its bosom, and casting 
smiling beams upon rock and tree and stream 
alike, yet received differently by each.. Mr. 
and Mrs. C, of Philadelphia, are spending the 
evening with us, in our drawing room. At 
nine o'clock p. m. we draw up at Pueblo, an 
important city, on the Arkansas River also, 
receiving its name from the fact that it re- 
mains on the site of an old Mexican pueblo, 
which means town. The tourist, from the 
train, observes for the most prominent feature 
an elegant hotel of stone, built at enormous 
cost, standing at the depot, presenting a sub- 
stantial appearance. At one gable end is a 
tall tower, embracing a clock. The street cars 



OVER THE DENVER AND R/O GRANDE. 31 

run over an elevated bridge spanning the rail- 
road near the hotel and adding to its business 
effect. The location of the city, in the heart 
of such a rich State, with so many natural 
advantages, cannot fail to speed its rapid prog- 
ress towards becoming the " leading manufac- 
turing center between the Missouri River and 
Pacific Coast." Gliding slowly on, the dark, 
deep waters of the river course through the 
city, and the number of railroad tracks prove 
the importance of Pueblo's position as a com- 
mercial mart. Scudding away we come to 
Colorado Springs, a healthful, fashionable, and 
romantic resort. Our Philadelphia acquaint- 
ances leave us here, and I peer out for a view of 
the surroundings, but, like the Garden of the 
Gods, which misty half-light prevented a view 
of, now this lovely spot too is obscured, yet 
I succeed in catching a glimpse of a Monte 
Christan scene on the mountain ledge west of 
the town, where electric lights play fantastic 
pranks with stray moonbeams. They tell me 
it is Colorado Springs Hotel, a beautiful and 
popular resort. It is now 11:30 o'clock p. m. 
We are heading for Denver, and are about to 
retire, to allow weary nature her just repose. 



CHAPTER Hi. 

FEOM DENVER TO DETROIT. 

August '21, Friday. 

WE were called early this morning, as our 
train steamed into Denver and, rising 
immediately, dressed quickly, leaving our Pull- 
man sleeper, "Estrella," with fond farewell and 
mental gratitude for its very comfortable con- 
veyance of us so far. We take a carriage and 
drive to the "Windsor," a fine house, conducted 
on the English plan, have breakfast, and come 
to our rooms to prepare for an outing. The 
morning is lovely, balmy, and fresh, the air 
keen and invigorating. We boarded the cable 
car, and rode the length of Larimer Street and 
back, took transfers to Sixteenth Street, the 
most superb and interesting thoroughfare in 
Denver, walled on both sides with immense 
stone and brick business buildings, and farther 
out residences of wealthy people fill the sight, 
green lawns and pretty gardens please, and 
everything presents a heavy, massive appear- 
ance, owing, I suppose, to the stone, to which J 

(32) 



FROM DENVER TO DETROIT. 33 

am, as a Califoriiian, unaccustomed. It began 
raining soon after we started out, and has con- 
tinued all day. Returning for our lunch, and 
to write some letters and telegrams, at three 
o'clock we ordered a carriage and drove all 
around the phenomenal city, of over one hun- 
dred thousand inhabitants, thence u}) '' Castle 
Hill," where everything to be shown we saw. 
The residences and homes of merchants, bank- 
ers, cattle kings and mine owners, ex-governors, 
senators, and other noted individuals, are re- 
markably elegant. The house of Senator 
Tabor is a superb structure, and that of Mr. 
Porter, the greatest cattle king of Colorado, is 
the •finest in the city, the interior decorations 
alone having cost a comfortable fortune. The 
stone State house, uncompleted, is being erected, 
at a cost of $3,000,000, and promises to be supe- 
rior to any public building in the great West. 
In driving about we pass by the St. Mary's 
Academy for young ladies, conducted by the 
Sisters of Loretta, a large, commodious brick 
building. We make some purchases, com- 
memorative of our visit, and return to the 
Windsor. Dine at six, and at half past eight 
take the train for Omalia, en route for Chicago. 
Mrs. Murphy secured the "Garda" on the 
vestibule sleeper of the Burlington route, and 
we are again very comfortably situated, and 
3 



34 SNAP NOTES. 

happy as heretolort'. The prime adventure 
of the drawing room was experienced by Mrs. 
Murphy, but her own diary must furnish the 
details. After we retired, I experienced ex- 
treme cold, and remembered, with a longing 
heart, my sealskin coat, over a thousand miles 
away. With the first streaks of dawn we were 
aroused for breakfast, and partook of it in the 
"diner," reaching Holdridge during the meaL 
We are now traveling over Nebraska, a thrifty- 
looking and productive country, under culti- 
vation as far as the eye is unforbidden by dis- 
tance to go. Axtell, Heartwell, and other 
small, unimportant places are rapidly view^ed 
as we steam through a fine farming and graz- 
ing territory. The air is chilly, but the day 
is bright and sunny. 

Upon nearing Hastings I inquire about the 
Platte River. A gentleman furnishes the infor- 
mation that it is farther south, on the Atchison, 
Topeka, and Santa Fe route, whereat I am dis- 
appointed, being deprived of going over part 
of the pioneers' trail, of which I have so often 
heard my dear ones speak. The Inroad fields 
are teeming "rich with golden grain." Farm- 
houses, environed by orchards and small flower 
gardens and vegetable plots, dot the vast ex- 
l)ans(', relieving the eye of grain and corn 
views. At Fairmount we lunch in dining car 



FROM DENVER TO DETROIT. 3£ 

"Lincoln," and enjoy both the occubiun and 
repast. Nothing noteworthy in sight. 

The towns resemble California rural districts ; 
the houses are all built of wood, like ours, and 
the fencing is all wire. Stock appear in limited 
number, but look fat and well. These vast 
plains, flat as a slate, replete with the result of 
farmers' industry and pluck, were like the 
Nevada sweep of sage land when our sturdy 
pioneers of '44 wended their way westward. 
The majority of those pioneers have passed to 
their last resting station, after having sur- 
mounted the wearisome mountains of life's 
difficulties, and patiently trod the monotonous 
plains of existence, meekly obedient to the 
will of our Heavenly Father, and gratefully 
responsive when his voice summoned their 
tired feet to rest and their wandering hearts 
home, and these prairies are ateem with the 
result of work and wealth. At Lincoln, Neb., 
we halted about two o'clock, and had twenty- 
five miiiutes to walk around. Cousin Maud, 
as usual, made a raid on the fruit man, and, to 
our surprise, was informed that miserable pears 
were four for twenty-five cents, whereas in Cal- 
ifornia we would fling the same kind of fruit 
away. Think of selling a half-spoiled pear for 
six and one-fourth cents, bananas (half black 
and all soft) four for a quarter, and five peaches 



36 SNAP NOTES. 

at the same rate. Vedly, one must travel to 
learn the value of what we depreciate, even 
scorn, at home. If this is not the '' corn-cracker 
State," it ought to be, we see such profusions of 
it growing, and what we had at table was excel- 
lent. 

Ashland is green and pretty; the pastures 
feed fine cattle, and the vernal s})ring of our 
peerless State is not more beautiful than the 
country I here behold. We cross a broad, 
sandy-bottomed river, which just above us is 
spanned by a long bridge, and its low banks are 
self-edged witli trees and undergrowth. Upon 
consulting my map I find that it is the oft- 
heard-of Platte. The gentleman who bliglited 
my hopes as to its location was wrong. Nu- 
merous herds of contented cattle are scattered 
over the verdant flat, [)resenting a happy picture. 
The country of the Platte is indeed "green 
fields and pastures new." How my heart 
yearns for the impossible privilege of convers- 
ing upon these scenes with my late father, and 
comparing notes witli his experiences! The 
liay, I notice, is stacked in small pineapple 
shape, and looks odd to Californians. 

Our matron has amused herself playing 
Solitaire nearly all day a la Mr. Ballon, of 
Mark Tvvain's sagebrush days. Cousin Evie 
has slept most of the time, in an easy posture, 



t'ttOM DENVER TO DETROIT, 37 

which I am sure she enjoys. Cousin Maude 
talked, read " Lost in New York," bought fruit, 
and performed her ablutions about every half 
hour in hopes of transferring as little real estate 
as possible from Nebraska. 

I snapped off these straggling notes, and 
watched the scenery. At half past three in the 
afternoon we heard "Omaha!" called, and I 
strained my eyes to obtain a full view of the 
city, and Council Bluffs, with its world of 
memories to the pioneers. Our stay of half an 
hour's duration was emplo^^ed by our party in 
walking around, viewing the surroundings for 
mental storing, eating popcorn — Maud's treat, of 
course — and talking over our experiences thus 
far. At 4:15 o'clock we respond to the order, 
"All aboard!" and are soon steaming rapidly 
along the banks oLthe Missouri, on the western 
border of the State of Iowa. The vicinity is 
the scene so cherished by our pioneers, whence 
they date the beginning of their westward pil- 
grimage, " Crossing the Missouri River at 
Council Bluffs on the 3d of May, 1844," etc., 
and now my memorv, charged with long recit- 
als of their vicissitudes, is overpowered by a 
sea of emotion, and I cannot restrain the tears 
that well up, to the sweet relief of my heart. 
Have just passed by Plattsmouth Station, and 
a few minutes brings us to the lengthy bridge 



38 SNAP NOTES. 

across the Missouri's broad bosom, which bridge, 
I am told, is lialf a mile long. As I gaze back 
upon the scene, it is one of interest and beaut3% 
the valley thickly set with natural trees and 
trailing brusli, the waters of the wide river 
gleaming througli them like flecks of silver, in 
the rich flush of the setting sun. The meadow 
lands are flourishing and freshly springlike, 
dotted with cattle, lazy and tat. Pacific Junc- 
tion is the first station that delays us a length 
of time. It is here the trains for the Pacific 
meet, from Missouri and the East The next 
cozy hamlet is Glenwood, a sweet little place, 
full of romantic situations. 

Creston, a larger town, was gained about 
8:30 p. M., and is brightly attractive at night in 
the garish glare of gas and electric lights. A\> 
retire, weary indeed, and, after broken snatches 
of sleep, unrefreshing, to say the least, are 
aroused at 7 o'clock a. m., Sunday, August 23, 
to dress for breakfast, in the expectation of 
reaching Chicago on time. The suburbs of the 
metropolis, as we approach, are alluring in their 
peace-filled beauty and restfulness, but I am eager 
to enter "the Windy City," and can only glance 
at these introductory charms to it. At S o'clock 
we reach the depot, secure a conveyance, and 
are rattled through the sloppy streets to the 
"Auditorium," an elegant hotel overlooking 



FkOM DENVER TO DETROIT. 39 

Lake Michigan- The building is ten stories 
'high, with a tower ten tiers higher, from whieli 
a bird's-eye view of the whole city may be 
obtained. The view from our window, in tlie 
seventh story, is truly interesting. The great 
blue lake stretches its heaving bosom of sixty 
miles before my unaccustomed vision, and its 
majestic length of three hundred and fifty 
nules sweeps beyond sight. As I stand by the 
window, viewing with curiosity and wonder the 
largest lake it has been m}^ fortune to see, I note 
the steamboats ])lying to and fro over its rippling 
surface, landing passengers almost "within a 
stone's throw" of our location, then the ten 
railroad tracks parallel with the swee)) of green- 
swai'ds seamed with paths, and next the clean, 
broad, smooth boulevard called Michigan Av- 
enue. 

After refreshing our appearances, a most 
necessary and satisfactory obligation, W(* de- 
scend to our dinner in tlie French restaurant, 
on the first floor, the hotel being one of those 
conducted on the I^uropean plan. After din- 
ner, procuring a carriage with "a character" 
for a coachman, we drive to the parks, World's 
Fair grounds, via the cleanly boulevard, which 
our driver innocently styles "the bully-yard." 
Like Denver's soft treat, it began raining soon 
after we started out and has k(*))t continually 



40 SNAP NOTES. 

pouring; twice we sought shelter in stables 
awaiting the abatement of the rainstorm. The 
park has some excellent specimens of landscape 
gardening, particularly noticeable a " World's 
Fair Globe" surmounting a green knoll, the 
water being re[)resented in Echeverias Metalica 
and the continents by the red Coleus. Probably 
the novel arrangement, measuring several feet 
in diameter, has been constructed of wire filled 
in with earth, the plants sown on the outside, 
the whole being ingeniously designed. Re- 
turning we seek the seclusion which our 
boudoirs grant, and soon retire to sleep soundly. 

Mondaji, August ^^J^. 

After our matin meal, Martin, Maud, and 
myself go out shopping, and to see the city 
that pork and pluck have made famous. We 
see none of the former. Mrs. Murphy is quite 
ill, so we do not remain away longer than to pur- 
cliase a few souvenirs, beautiful spoons being 
our most valuable collection. During the after- 
noon I remain with Mrs. M., while my cousins 
go out and around, and in the evening to the 
theater. I decline attending amusements with 
them during my season of wearing mourning, 
and retire at midnight to enjoy balmy sleep. 

Tuesday, August ^25. 
Rose this morning at seven o'clock, break- 



FitOM DENVER TO DETROIT. 41 

fasted at ten, thereafter packed our trunks for 
Boston. I wrote letters to some friends in New 
England, acquainting tliem with the likeli- 
hood of my presence in the vicinity of their 
abiding places. Mrs. Murphy went with me to 
Father D. J. Riordan's residence, whose address 
liad been kindly furnished me by His Grace 
Archbishop Eiordan prior to my departure 
from California. 

With a stubborn coachman and limited time 
we are deprived of seeing other friends and the 
pleasure of visiting the cathedral built by the 
late Bishop Thomas Foley, which I was desir- 
ous of inspecting. We return to dine at the 
hotel and prepare for the train, which leaves at 
3:10 p. M., and we are "on time" at the busy 
depot, of which we take farewell without re- 
gret. Now, at 3:30 o^clock, we are flying on the 
wings of steam along the shore of the beautiful 
blue lake, leaving the tall buildings of the 
phoenix-like city in the distance, getting 
glimpses of small towns along the route, but 
moving too rapidly to be able to read the 
names on the stations. At 5:10 we rush into 
Michigan City, in the "Hoosier" State, Indiana. 
Have remarked the forests of small trees grow- 
ing tliickh^ and meadow lands whence timber 
has been removed look rich and thrifty under 
cultivation, but, like similar spots in California 



42 SNAP NOTES. 

have many tree stumps ungrubbed in their 
midst. 

Michigan City is a large, enterprising place, 
with a generous supply of natural trees and 
tall churcli spires. I recognize tlie Catholic 
edifice, witli its gilded cross surmounting the 
tower. We now occupy tlie drawing rooms of 
the "Tidal Wave" coacli, of Michigan C^entral. 
Tlie almost dense forests of young growth ob- 
scure the view on either side of the raih'oad, 
and the country, Michigan, we are traversing 
is full of health-giving properties and extensive 
ajj-ri cultural advantages. Timber resembling 
our lofty redwood attracts my fancy, but I be- 
lieve it is a species of hr. A little station is 
marked A very s, in the heart of enviable sur- 
roundings as far as created beauty goes, tlience 
another forest, followed by homes of farmers 
snug in sweet content, with orchards fruit laden 
and graceful corn fields. AVe have just been 
regaled by sight of a lovely, grassy-edged lake, 
whose breast palpitates beneath a fragrant load 
of water lilies, lazy and lolling as those of the 
Nile, but we are swept onward ere the vision is 
fully satisfied. At 5:45 we "slow up" at Niles, 
on the banks of the St. Josephs River, a ro- 
mantic looking stream, and are delayed a few 
minutes. A boy opens our drawing room un- 
ceremoniously, and presents each lady with an 



FROM DENVER TO DETROIT. 43 

exquisite little bouquet, "Compliments of Chief 
Engineer's Office, Niagara Falls Route," of 
Michigan Central. 

Well launched on the "Tidal Wave," skim- 
ming over the southern portion of the State, I 
mark verdurous forest and grove and silvery 
streams peeping througli the bushes, then "run- 
ning away," as though affrighted by the snort 
of the iron steed, as he madly dashes past. Fo- 
liaged trees again over numberless acres. 
^>rily Michigan is a richly wooded State. 
Having coursed over a line country, we reach 
Ostemo at ():55, a small place of no particular 
distinction, and, darkness suddenly wafting 
downwards, our gas is lit, and we sliall soon — 
— pardon me for using a nautical phrase — 
"turn in." 

About seven o'clock we enter Kalamazoo, a 
city I have often heard of. A church is promi- 
nent near the railroad track. Its two very 
lofty spires, with plain Roman crosses, show 
up conspicuously as we approach. The city is 
large and flourishing,, with an outlook of as- 
sured prosperity. The river and its bridge are 
valuable adjuncts to its features. Continuing 
onward we sight Jackson, another large, im- 
portant city, and then Ann Arbor, patronized 
by C\alifornians for the college of law it main- 
tains. Neariiig Detroit, our luggnge had to be 



44 SNAP NOfES. 

checked or marked before crossing the river 
into Ontario, Canada, across which we must 
run to Niagara. At ten o'clock p. m. we steam 
away from Ypsilanti to the Detroit. We reach 
Detroit City late, and I am suggesting to Mrs. 
Murphy to "stop off" here for the night and 
obtain a view of the city, call upon Bishop 
John Foley, and resume our journey to-morrow 
evening, but she thinks otherwise, so we retire 
to rest, which we all need, and the confusion 
and noise crossing the river is anything but 
conducive to peaceful slumber. 



CHAPTER IV. 

A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 

August ^26, Wednesday. 

AT seven o'clock we are called up at Falls 
View to see Niagara. The vast sweep 
of waters to the falls is to me more surprising 
than the falls themselves, inasmuch as I had 
never seen pictures of them from the point 
whence we now inspect them, and they do not 
impress me with their enormity. In a few 
minutes we cross the great Cantilever Bridge, 
nine hundred and ten feet long, and are at 
Niagara. We register at the Cataract House 
for the day, taking an early breakfast, then 
secure a three-seated conveyance, and ride to 
the different points of interest. Driving over 
a common rough country road of some dis- 
tance, the first scene visited is Whirlpool Rapids, 
where we pause, overawed at the grand spec- 
tacle, the fierce, wild, angry-looking w^aters 
rushing madly downwards, throwing up foam 
in feathery flecks as it dashes over the crags 
that form the rude bed of the river. The force 

(45) 



46 SNAP NOTES. 

ol" the water flow here is tremendous, yet it must 
be borne in mind that the supply, from four 
great lakes, compressed in the width of three 
hundred feet, rushes frantically onward at the 
rate, I believe, of twenty-seven miles an hour. 
We had our photographs taken at this place. 
I ordered mine to be sent home, that the loved 
ones may see how I am enjoying the, to me, 
new wonders of God's -footstool. Ascending 
the bank by the ingeniously-constructed ele- 
vator, we purchase some souvenirs, arraquettes, 
etc., etc., and drive to the great whirlpool, which 
is four hundred feet deep, and a njarvel in 
itself. The swirling green waters make one 
dizzy to watch and wonder at. It was here 
that Captain Webb was last seen alive, and it 
is here that so many have attempted the dan- 
gerous feat of swimming across. Six men and 
one woman have succeeded, wearing cork 
jackets, and one in a lifeboat, the daring female 
performing the feat in a barrel. The day is 
beautiful, sunny, and warm — in truth, the 
brightest we have had since leaving Nevada. 
Wandering around I stray toward tlie stairway 
above the great whirlpool, and the outlet, and 
count sixteen hundred and sixteen steps, weari- 
some to look at, and a task of importance to 
double. The view from a pathway on the hill- 
side, suggesting fearful power, is occasion for 



A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 47 

reflection on my own nothingness, and from 
this sublime scene my thoughts go back to 
history, to the humble Jesuit missionary of the 
Indians, Fr. Hennepin, whose features were 
the first belonging to white man reflected in 
these turbulent waters, as far back as 1678. 

Entering another bazaar to inspect curios, 
of which there is an infinity, we select a few, 
and, taking our carriage again, return to the 
Cataract Hotel, two miles distant, for our lunch. 
The property in the vicinity of the whirlpool, 
on the American side, belongs to the De Veaux 
Military Academy, which solemn-looking stone 
structure, covered with ivy, we pass on our way 
from the bazaar. Niagara City boasts a popu- 
lation of seven thousand, but I have remarked 
very few fine-looking homes, and the houses 
are mostly scattering and poor. The only im- 
pressions, of course, are effected by the riv^er 
and falls. The city, from my humble idea of 
progress, is far behind the age, considering 
that trains enter it every half hour, bearing 
excursionists by the hundred, who fill the 
streets, marching along with lunch baskets, 
but are lost amid the great wonders, to reap- 
pear when their trains return. The beauti- 
fully located city grows slowly. 

Finding that it is only eleven o'clock, we con- 
clude to cross the new suspension bridge (one 



48 SI^AP NOTES. 

thousand two hundred and sixty-eight feet long), 
"designed for foot passengers and carriages," and 
enter Canada, to view magnificent Niagara from 
the heights above Victoria Park. Reaching the 
Canadian shore, we pass the "Clifton House," a 
beautiful hotel, with broad porches garnished 
with vines, palms, and potted plants, and drive 
through Queen Victoria's Park, a fine lawn- 
covered sunny slope, whence we view in silence 
the great world wonder of American scenery. 
The day is lovely indeed, and everything con- 
ducive to the fullest enjoyment of the mar- 
velous grandeur of the scene. AVe spin along 
the ridge to "Clark's Burning Springs," a mys- 
tery in themselves. 

Entering the observatory building, we are 
conducted to a semi-dark room. From the 
center of the floor projects a pipe about two 
and a half feet high, connected with the Burn- 
ing Spring below, and to the top of this pipe 
the attendant touched a lighting match, when 
the gas instantly burst into a soft blaze, and 
to it he applied a piece of newspaper, which 
ignited, yet the heat was not so intense that 
the hand could not be passed rapidly through 
it without burning. The keeper gave us each 
a drink of the water from the mineral spring 
connected with it. U})on asking for a result 
of the analysis, we Avere informed that it con- 



A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 49 

tains principally sulphur, iron, and magnesia, 
and my own imagination supplied stale eggs. 
The burning s})rings were discovered over a 
century ago, by Indians building a camp fire, 
and it is said that they were quickly dispersed 
by fright when the gas ignited and remained 
burning, they deeming the place haunted by 
evil spirits. For a great number of years the 
story was known only by tradition, and the 
spot lost sight of, until located by the present 
managers. Ascending to the observatory sur- 
mounting the building, I looked long and 
interestedly at the Niagara lake or river as it 
ap})ears sullenly in the distance above the falls, 
the water flowing smooth and glossy in the 
shining sunlight, but becoming rough and 
foamy as it approaches the vast chasm, pre- 
cipitating itself one hundred and sixty-four 
feet, making its fall resound to a great distance. 
The Iroquois language is indeed concise, for 
its simple word "Niagara" expresses ''mighty, 
wonderful, thundering water." My attention, 
riveted in devout admiration and amazement, 
cannot be directed elsewhere. Turn as I may, 
the eye of interest reverts to the fleecy, misty, 
soft, eternal flow of the magnificent waters. 
Up on the Ontario commons stands an impos- 
ing gray stone convent, but I could not learn 
what order of nuns conducts it. 



50 SNAP NOTES. 

Ere descending from the observatory I kiss 
my hand to Canada, because it held the early 
married lives of my dear parents, and, next to 
California, had sweetest memories and most 
interest for them. As we recross the bridge, 
tlie little steamer Maid of the Mist is making 
her pleasure trips between the American and 
Canadian landings, and, under the spray and 
rainbow tinting, looks phantom-like and lovely. 
Prospect Park, on American side, is smaller than 
Victoria, but wooded and beautiful. On our 
way back to the hotel is shown the vessel in 
which the Amazon made the swim of the whirl- 
pool. It is a long barrel, smaller at one end, 
with opening in the side. Reaching the "Cata- 
ract" we lunch at noon, after which Mrs. 
Murphy retires to her room, and we, the rest 
of the sight-seers, walk up to the "Cave of the 
Winds." I am troubled with a cold, and can- 
not descend, but the others do, and i)resent a 
most comical api)earance "rigged out" in the 
oil clothing furnished by the keepers. Those 
desirous of making the descent, upon i)ayment 
of twenty-five cents each, are conducted to a 
dressing room, where every article of clothing 
is exchanged for those of oil. A tin box is 
also furnished, into which are placed the coin, 
jewelry, and other valuables, and its num- 
bered key is hung around the neck of the 



A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 51 

owner, while the box is stored in the safe of 
the office. Equipped for the dangerous ex- 
periment, the comical brigade present them- 
selves at the head of the slippery steps, and are 
immediately taken in charge by guides, who 
convey them to the cave under the Great Fall. 
The sensation was certainly novel. The super- 
intendent awarded them certificates for having 
succeeded in making the thrilling plunge to 
the cave. 

During their stay below I wandered around 
alone, visiting Luna Island and other pretty 
points of richly w^ooded grounds, strolled along 
the path in the woods, where numberless tour- 
ists were enjoying the day, back to the foot- 
bridge across the cataracts to the town, through 
which I leisurely sauntered, making a few pur- 
chases, thence to the hotel, and, gaining our 
boudoir, enjoyed a rest until nearly train-time. 
Summoning a servant, Mrs. Murphy ordered a 
carriage for our conveyance to the depot, which 
we reached at 5:30 o'clock p. m., where we took 
the New York Central train for Buffalo, but, 
unfortunately, boarded a local, and came near 
missing it, bag and baggage. Our through 
tickets are not recognized on the local, and we 
are obliged to purchase tickets to Buffalo. The 
car is very much crowded, and the accommo- 
dations inferior. From Niagara to Lockport 



52 SNAP NOTES. 

is a sea of orchards as we run across the State 
of New York. 

I take particular notice of the country on ac- 
count of its distance from California, until we 
swing into Buffalo. Upon reaching the city of 
Mr. Cleveland's early political triumphs our 
party is thrown into dire confusion by the con- 
ductor's order that " all passengers must leave 
the train; it goes no further." Picture our dis- 
may, and you will pardon our sympathy with 
Mark Twain's party lost in the snow, whose 
deathbed resolutions went for nought, for here 
we are, among strangers, not destined for Buf- 
falo, but Boston. We look at each other re- 
proachfully. Who is to blame? Martin is treated 
to a hasty " round up " by his mother for not 
having obtained the required information re- 
specting the trains. Evie is diligently plying 
the question, "Where am I going?" to which 
repeated query the conductor impatiently re- 
plies, "How do /know?" Mrs. M. is collecting 
valises, hand bags, etc., and trying to convey 
them all at once from the car. In the crowd 
Maud has disappeared, and I am looking on, 
waiting for the reunion, for verily I say unto 
you, the California party has stampeded. Fi- 
nally, with the dispersing of the throng of pas- 
sengers, Maud is recovered, Mrs. Murphy has 
been relieved of the "grip sacks," Evie has dis- 



A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 53 

covered her latitude, for Martin has adjusted mat- 
ters by having our tickets examined, resuHing in 
the knowledge gained that the through train 
will arrive in a few minutes, so our spirits are 
again serene. I marvel at the fine city, having 
often heard my father speak of Buflalo as little 
more tlian a trading })Ost in the days of the 
Murpliy exodus from Canada. It now stretclies 
along the Niagara River and is a great, popu- 
lous city, of much importance and wealth. I 
remark the cathedral, I suppose, with three 
domes or towers topped with crosses, on our 
left. We take the sleeper of the Wagner vesti- 
bule, and are now, at 7 o'clock, slowly leaving 
Buffalo in the background, and again the sim- 
ple charms of country life and well-tilled lands 
greet the vision. 

After leaving Buffalo I eagerh^ caught a 
hurried glimpse of the placid waters of Lake 
Erie, to the southeast of us, and its little steam- 
ers plying their calling over its shining tide. 
I revive my earliest recollections of history, 
and recall Perry's victory with a feeling of 
rapture. How much more would we all enjoy 
this trip were any one of us posted on the names 
and histories of the places we see. Perhaps the 
scenes of cruel battles during our lamentable 
rebellion are skipped by as unnoticed as a 
stray house or a watering tank, whereas devout 



54 SNAP NOTES. 

interest in our land would attract attention to 
the spot were it known, and a pious thought 
and prayer might be entertained for the mem- 
ory of those who wore so bravely the " blue and 
the gray." The country is so freshly green. 
When do they have summer, dr}^ and parched, 
in the East? In the gloaming we enter Bata- 
via, on a river running southward. It is pret- 
tily located, and a neat parterre, artistically de- 
signed, marks the station, the word " Batavi a " 
being imbedded in the lawn in white stone, 
which is unique and pretty. Batavia is a pre- 
tentious-looking town, with a well-filled ceme- 
tery, bordering on the railroad line. About 
half past eight o'clock we "pull in " to Rocliester 
for supper, where my companions alight, but 
I feel too fatigued and prefer resting to eating. 
Glancing out I regret that darkness intervenes 
and prevents observation of a city I would like 
to see. Retired at eleven o'clock very travel 
tired. We occupied berths on the train in the 
general passenger car for the first time, and 
found it very inconvenient, not being accus- 
tomed to it. The upper berth is particularly 
low on these Boston and Albany cars, hence 
unpleasant for those in the lower couches. It 
would have been comfortable enough, however, 
had we not known "better days" in the draw- 
ing rooms of the Pullman and other wheeled 
palaces. 



A VTSTT TO NiAaABA. 55 

Tliiirsdaij, xiiif/u.'^f 27. 

I awoke early, and, peeping out, as we stopped 
I read " Pittsfield," and knew I was in ^lassa- 
chusetts. Passing onward reached Westtield, 
tlience Springfield, where we had our breakfast, 
warm and pahitably served. Springfield is a 
beautiful city on the Connecticut River, wliich 
runs directly through it. After ten minutes' 
delay for the meal we are again swiftly spinning 
by small stations, hamlets, and important cities 
on our course to Boston. Massachusetts looks 
much like verduous Iowa and IMichigan, but 
so rocky! The gray stone croppings recall 
places in California through northern Sonoma. 
The grass is emerald in hue, but the soil is not 
at all rich looking; the tree foliage and shrub- 
bery are unfamiliar to me, yet pretty. I ex- 
[)ected to see every house east of the Rockies 
built of stone or brick, and only found them to 
great extent in Denver as 3'et, also Chicago, 
which city is never a laggard in the march of 
improvement and progress. 

We have just gained, with a short stop, 
Palmer, a conspicuous and not unimportant city. 
A mile or two further east, as I glance to our 
right, or south of the train, I mentally photo- 
graph a valley that is decidedly Californian in 
character, particularly Marin County, and, as 
I am so distant from the golden slope, I may 



56 SHAP NOTES. 

be pardoned for loving the State which repro- 
duces some of the well-known features of my 
own. West Warden is beautifully set between 
laughing streams that break and ripple over 
rocks, chattering in innocent noise like a bevy 
of merry children as they run. It has been 
raining since we left Springfield. No wonder 
til at the grass is green and soft, under so much 
moisture. We glide by Brookfield with only 
time to glance at it and admire its velvety 
covering of beauteous lawns and shining rills 
and lakelets, many of them surfaced with 
blooming white water lilies. There are many 
people on the train bound for Boston who 
seem to have been somewhere A\^est. Small 
stations, such as South Spencer, are seen and 
gone, barely giving time to snatch the name 
on memory's tablet. I can understand how 
easily the waters of these many streams were 
utilized for millwork before steam came into 
common use. Many mill dams suggest it. 
They are very picturesque. The only near 
hills I have seen are the Berkshire, in this 
State, and they resemble our own. Rochdale, 
on a pretty creek or, maybe, river, is a small 
town with few houses. The stone fences are 
like those in Sonoma, on the road to Na[)a. 

About nine o'clock we reach Worcester, a 
city of considerable importance, with large fac- 



A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 57 

tory interests and business buildings. The 
depot is an extensive affair, and the large two- 
steepled Catholic Church of the Jesuits, on the 
hill, is a prominent ornament to the town, and 
haildsome monument to the energy and zeal 
of the order. Worcester is the birthplace of 
our noble old American historian, Bancroft. I 
turn my attention back to a knoll surrounded 
by greenswards and scattering ornamental trees, 
upon which stands a long gray stone building, 
resembling our Napa Insane Asylum. It is 
handsomely located, and an imposing struc- 
ture.* 

^" I have since been told that it is the Worcester In- 
sane Asvlum. 



CHAPTER V. 
THE CJTY OF BOSTON. 

WE are nearing Boston, the baggage check- 
man having arrived on the scene to re- 
lieve us of the responsibihty of our baggage. I 
learn that it is an hour's ride from Worcester 
to Boston. As we approach tlie "Athens of 
America," we pass near Lake Cohitchuate, 
which supplies tlie metropolis with water, a 
placi<l sheet with many small craft floating on 
its glassy surface. About ten o'clock we find 
ourselves in the "city of culture," when a cab 
manager at once calls a carriage for our use, 
adjusts the i)rice, and gives the order to the 
" Hotel Vendome," thus preventing confusion 
to strangers or anxiety about luggage. The 
"Vendome," on Commonwealth Avenue, fac- 
ing part of The Commons, is a very elegant 
white marble building, about six stories high, 
and covering the major part of a square The 
views are delightful from every side, the Charles 
River being one of them. It is raining here, 
and anything but warm, "as we know it." Re- 

(5S) 



THE CITY OF BOSTON. 59 

fresliing ourselve's, we take liiiu'h (the hotel is 
not on the European plan), and then order a 
carriage for a drive to Bunker Hill Monument, 
which we enjoy to the fullest. Mrs. Murphy 
remained in the office, selecting souvenir 
spoons, specimens of which she presented to 
each of us, and the rest of the party climbed 
to the summit of the tower, two hundred and 
ninety-four steps, and were well wearied with 
the unusual exercise. We walked around, 
read the inscriptions on the slabs that niark 
the walls of the old redoubt and Prescott's 
statue, all of which were exceedingly interest- 
ing and historical. 

Reentering our carriage, we drive around 
the strangely-planned city, which is more in- 
tricate than we could have imagined. We call 
at a dry goods store, and are conveyed to its 
upper stories by an elevator. The sellers of 
goods are all women and young girls, the hit- 
ter being the noisiest and most "slangy" lot 
I ever listened to. A longer jaunt around 
town, and finally home, where I found a 
friend's note and card awaiting me. We dined 
at 0:30 p. m. in a s[)acious, well-hlled dining 
hall, and the meal was elegantly served and 
most inviting. The waiters throughout the 
hotel are of the dark race, and they know their 
business perfectly. My companions all at- 



60 SNAP NOTES. 

tended the Globe Theater, and, with a friend, 
I walked to the Charles River Bridge, ma~de 
famous by Longfellow's song, "The Bridge," 
and we stood there for a few minutes watching 
the tide and the "tall church towers." It was 
very beautiful, the waters sparkling under a 
thousand lights, the mist overhanging the 
quiet city rendering the sky-piercing spires 
phantom-like and statel3^ The theater part}^ 
returned at half past ten. 

Friday, August ^8. 

I arose, donned my attire early, and wrote 
several letters. My friend Dr. F., of Worcester, 
kindly sent a message to the effect that he 
would come around between eight and nine to 
take us to Cambridge. He w^as on time, but, 
as my cousins had not yet appeared, I accepted 
his invitation to visit the Notre Dame Convent, 
of which my California Alma Mater is a branch, 
to meet his sister, also to see the Cathedral of 
Holy Cross, Immaculate Conception Church of 
the Jesuits, wdio also own and conduct Boston 
College, adjoining the edifice. It rained in- 
cessantly. I have learned how to use an um- 
brella since leaving California. The rain be- 
coming stormy, we called a cab, and comfortably 
drove about to the places of interest, the State 
House, with its gilded dome, Boston Commons, 



THE CITY OF BOSTON. 61 

the city gardens, new public library, built of 
white stone, patterned in the Greek style, after 
the Library of Athens, the Harvard Prepara- 
tory Medical School, Academy of Arts and 
Sciences, Old South Church, moved and changed. 
I enjoyed this sight-seeing thoroughly. The 
Notre Dame Sisters were very familiar. Sr. 
Bernardine, the reverend mother of the convent, 
is a lovely lady, of superior character and ex- 
cellent address. She made many inquiries re- 
specting our San Jose college, and evinced a 
gratifying interest in California. "To a way- 
farer in a strange land nothing is so sweet as 
to hear his name on the tongue of a friend," 
remarks the sage Egyptian in " Ben Hur," and 
I may add that it is equally as cheering to hear 
the dear names of our loved ones mentioned 
by strangers, as I experienced when Sister Ber- 
nardine asked if I knew Sister Anna Raphael, 
my beloved cousin and former teacher, and her 
sister. Miss Marcella Fitzgerald, than whom I 
have not a more valued friend in California, 
and so I felt the sweet thrill in my heart as 
happily as though the names were my own. 
Returning to the hotel about eleven o'clock, 
finding the other members prepared, Dr. F. 
offered to conduct our party of five across the 
Charles River, over the bridge immortalized 
by America's poet laureate, to " Cambridge, the 



62 SNAP NOTES. 

classic," and I do not recall having ever en- 
joyed a day more replete with pleasure. 

Our guide, a graduate of Harvard, and later 
of a Vienna medical college, left no effort un- 
tried to render the occasion enjoyable, and his 
exertions were indeed appreciated by my friends 
and self with truly Californian enthusiasm. 
He presented his fellow student and friend, Dr. 
Barnes, a worthy practitioner of Cambridge, 
who at once joined us, and accompanied us to 
the home of Longfellow, which we inspected 
with almost reverence. The mansion is now 
in possession of the poet's daughter, who at 
present is away from home, and the hospitable 
housekeeper extended the honors. The doctor 
led the way to the study of the author of "Hia- 
watha," and showed all the articles of interest 
therein. 

Taking advantage of the privilege I sat in 
the prettily-carved heavy chestnut wood easy 
chair, made frojn the tree under which stood 
the " Village Blacksmith's " shop, and presented 
to the poet by the children of Cambridge, men- 
tioned in the poem, together with a small water- 
color picture of tree and shop. I was given his 
pen to handle, and, with indescribable emotion, 
and wishing for a single thought worthy of the 
master mind that had swayed this weapon 
"mightier than the sword," I tremblingly 



THE CITY OF BOSTON. 63 

wrote a line suggestive of the occasion in my 
autograph book. The writing desk and table 
remain as Mr. Longfellow left it, and are likely 
to be guarded from the curious as long as the 
vigilant housekeeper continues in charge. A 
painting of the poet, by his son Ernest, stands 
on an easel near the table. The work is infe- 
rior, and the portrait poor. Books lie around 
in artistic disorder, and the room is as pretty 
as it is interesting. Across the hall we were 
shown into the Washington room, where our 
first president made his headquarter's comfort- 
able, as general of the Ameiican A^rmy. 

In the absence of the family we deemed further 
ins[)ection intrusive, and took our departure, 
filled with a happy memory. As we passed out, 
we noticed the Charles River gleaming beyond, 
and remembered that it was a favorite theme of 
the poet's, and his verses w^elled up into expres- 
sion, which we quoted, closing the gate, and 
threw back a kiss to the dear old home of our 
favorite. Following up the avenue we came to 
Elmwood, the Lowell homestead, where most 
of the poet's papers were written. Strange, I 
had a letter of introduction to James Russell 
Lowell, but he sickened and died the week be- 
fore I arrived. 

Retracing our path, Drs F. and B. took us 
to Harvard University, all through which we 



64 SNAP XOTES. 

were shown, the different buildings, and the 
museum, a most complete and beautifully ap- 
pointed institution. California is here promi- 
nently represented by an enormous octopus, 
extending across the ceiling of an extensive 
exhibition room. The gymnasium, refectory, 
and theater, memorial hall, and other excellent 
departments, were most interesting. Next we 
were conveyed to the old elm, under whose shade 
Washington received command of the army, 
July 3, 1775, and which still throws its cloak 
of green over those standing anear, who read 
the lines upon the granite that prove how 
much respect to it is due. ^^andalisnl is ob- 
viated by j)lates of tin fastened over the scars 
made by iconoclastic hands. A shower of 
leaves fell around me as I paused beside the 
iron railing encircling the venerated tree, and 
I caught some of them as souvenirs of the hon- 
ored place. As it has continually showered 
throughout our peregrinations in Cambridge, I 
find the "rainy day" of Longfellow most life- 
like, for — 

'• AVith each gust the dead leaves fall, 
And the day is dark and cold and dreary." 

The vines are clinging everywhere, and how 
smooth and regular is their clustering wilder- 
ness of beauty. We contemplate a stroll or 
drive through Mt. Auburn Cemetery, the West- | 



THE CITY OF BOSTON. 65 

minster of America, but the rain, the incessant 
rain, drives iis back, so we reluctantW return 
to Boston, leaving for anpther da}^ Auburn's 
storied dead. Now our program calls for a, 
thorough inspection of Boston, and how I will 
enjoy this sight-seeing in the old historic city ! 
I like it best of anything I have seen outside 
of California, the dear old State, which, "taken 
all in all, we ne'er shall see " her " like again." 
Entering the stately Vendome in a most for- 
lorn and bedraggled condition, we hasten to 
our apartments to make preparations for din- 
ner, which we ex[)ectto enjoy, the "inner man" 
having been neglected during our loiter in 
Cambridge. After dinner my friend returned 
to Worcester. 

Satitrday, AuguM 29. 

This morning's sunny hours were spent down 
town shopping, among the queerly crooked 
streets. The day has been charmingly bright, 
and everything conducive to enjoyment of the 
outing. We bought souvenirs and other nick- 
nacks — perhaps I ought to designate them as 
" Yankee notions." 

Noontide found us lunching, and later, ac- 
companied by Dr. F., we inspected the Mu- 
seum of Arts and Sciences, where two hours 
were instructively spent. How T wish I could 
5 



66 SNAP NOTES. 

remember all I saw in tliis treasure-filled mu- 
seum of art ! 

Thence our escort guided us to the North or 
Christ Church, from whose tall " belfry arch " 
gleamed the lanterns of Paul Revere in 1775, 
a beacon warning to the people of Charlestown 
of the march of the British soldiery from town, 
" down to their boats on the shore." If memory 
were lax in retaining the impressions of his- 
tory, the immortal measure of Longfellow^ 
familiar to every schoolchild, would supply 
the mental vision with a poetic picture of this 
ride. 

"Through all oui' history, to the last, 

In the hour of darkness, and peril, and need, 
The people will waken and listen to hear 

The hurrying hoof beats of that steed, 
And the midnight message of Paul Revere." 

Mrs. Murphy presented me with " The Mid- 
night Ride" souvenir orange spoon, a beauti- 
fully etched representation of the hero wildly 
riding to "spread the alarm." 

Near by is " Old Copp's Hill Burial Ground," 
and thither we wended our meanderings, and 
had no occasion to regret an introduction to 
Mr. Edward McDonald, the intelligent superin- 
tendent, who has diligently searched the ar- 
chives for history of the place and every tomb in 
the cemetery, and has compiled the result of 
his labor in neat book form. 



THE CITY OF BOSTON. 67 

On Copp's Hill, where we stand, "Generals 
Burgoyne and Clinton watched the battle on 
Bunker Hill, and directed thebatter}^" Within 
shadow of the hill stands Boston's oldest 
homestead, and Christ Church, erected in 
1723, is said to be the oldest but one public 
building in Boston. *' The prayer books and 
communion silver, given by George H., in 1733, 
are now in use." The church also contains 
a bust of Washington, which was the first ever 
made of the " Father of his country." The 
chime of bells, conveyed from England, is the 
mosl ancient chime in America, dated 1744. 

One of the oldest gravestones in this ceme- 
tery is dated 1661, and I remarked that the 
slabs are of slate, the first I have seen. The 
inscriptions are cut into the stone, in primitive 
lettering. The tombstone said to be the oldest 
in New England, according to Mr. McDonald's 
pamphlet, is here, erected to the memory of 
Grace Berry, who died in Plymouth, in 1625. 
AVhen Copp's Hill was opened first as a burial 
ground, her remains were interred herein, in 
the year 1659. Among the most interesting 
inscriptions I read, the one over the grave of^ 
Cotton Mather attracted my particular atten- 
tion, and I freely transcribe the wording to my 
notebook: — 



68 SNAP NOTES. 

" The Huvereiid Doctors, 

Increase, Cotton, 

& Samuel Mather 

were interred in this vault. 
*Tis the tomb of our Father's 

Mather Croc k er 's 

I. Died Augt. 27th, 1723, £e 84. 

C. Died Feb. 13th, 1727, le iib. 

S. Died June 27th, 1785, a? 79." 

We were shown where stood a large willow 
tree, planted in the Ellis plot in 1844, which 
was a cutting from the tree over Napoleon's 
grave at St. Helena. The grave of Amos 
Lincoln was pointed out, wdth the information 
that he was one of the many young colonists 
who overthrew the cargo of tea in Boston Har- 
bor, and afterwards married a daughter of 
Paul Revere. 

I copied the following epitaph, which for 
peculiarity struck my fancy: — 
"In memory of 
Mary Huntley 
Who departed this life Sep. 28th, 1798, 
in the 64th year of her age. 

" Stop here, my friend, and cast an ej^e. 
As you are now, so once was I; 
As I am now, so you must be. 

Prepare for death and follow me." 

A wag, upon perusing the warning, added: — 

"To follow you I'm not content, 
Unless T know which way vou went." 



THE CITY OF BOSTON. 69 

From the historic spot, filled with the "silent 
majority " of Puritan heroes, we were guided 
to Faneuil Hall, with its big "gold" grass- 
hopper vane. The dear old building has been 
devoted to the uses of a market, but, were 
speech possible, what stories it could tell — hot- 
headed debate and earnest appeal, warm ap- 
plause and final triumph. The edifice (for is 
it not dedicated to our country, wdiich claims 
us, after God?) remains about as when the colo- 
nists met herein and read the immortal Decla- 
ration wdiich proclaimed them free and inde- 
pendent people. Everything suggestive of the 
Revolutionary days is held in almost sacred re- 
spect in Boston, and Faneuil Hall building, 
used as a market place, is not, indeed, in depre- 
ciation of its historic character, but to check 
the corroding influence of idleness, time's 
w^earying enemy. 

Strolling onward we reached Granary Ceme- 
tery, wherein are interred the remains of John 
Hancock, the fearless signer, w^itli other wit- 
nesses of the Declaration, Benjamin Franklin 
and Paul Revere. Every name inscribed on 
the bronze gate "cometh up as a' flower" from 
the ground of early learned history lessons, and 
pondering over the dust these sacred precincts 
inclose is a source of novel interest to me, 
time having exorcised the dormitory of endless 
sleep of the spirit of melancholy. 



70 SNAP NOTES. 

The little short street, or court, where Daniel 
Webster and Rufus Choate were wont to walk 
together for hours and discuss tlie important 
affairs of State, was attractive indeed, and I was 
shown the hotel wherein the two statesmen 
dropped ever and anon to moisten their throats, 
seared by dry subjects. This hotel, by the way, 
was rendered famous by the facetious remark of 
Artemus Ward in loquaciously locating Har- 
vard University on its third floor (and the lawn 
facing the Conservatory of Music), it being a 
resort for the "students on a lark." 

Wending homeward, or, rather, hotelward, 
we bent our course to the Charles River, took a 
long look at the dark waters, rippling and 
shimmering in the difl'erent electric and gas 
lights in lengthened brilliancy. 

Reaching the Vendome, we dined, and did 
justice to the repast, after which my compan- 
ions attended the theater, the doctor spent his 
evening with a medical friend, and I repaired 
to my room to write home and prepare for rest. 

Sunday, August SO. 

We arose early to take a trip planned by Dr. 
F. to Gloucester and Salem, to meet Dr. Oliver 
Wendell Holmes, and my heart bounded with 
delight in anticipation of the great pleasure 
in store for us, but 



THE CITY OF BOSTON. 71 

" Pleasures are as poppies spread ; 
Pull the flower and the bloom is shed." 

The merciless rain persistently imprisoned us 
within doors, and my hopes vanished like *'chafF 
before the wind." 

A¥e attended mass at the cathedral and 
Church of the Immaculate Conception, then 
visited Boston College. We were shown all 
through the institution, and then drove home, 
not, however, without being allowed the won- 
derful privilege of a peep at John L. Sullivan's 
saloon. 

Well, we wrote letters all day, entertained 
each other as well as the dark day allowed, and 
during the afternoon I went out walking with 
a friend, wdio conducted me to Boston Harbor, 
whereat arose visions of the active "tea party." 
Vessels bound for New York and other places 
were quietly lying at the wharf, and the city 
was peculiarly noiseless. This is my first ex- 
perience of a Puritan Sabbath. Even the tink- 
ling bells on the horses of street cars were re- 
moved, lest they sound too gay and loud for 
the standard solemnity of Sunday. 

The rain abating we wandered along Beacon 
Street Hill, where my companion called my 
attention to the colonial style of building, 
and the ancient green glass window panes. 
Through Dr. Holmes' "Long Walk" of the 



72 SNAP NOTES. 

Commons we returned to the liotel. Throwing 
off my wraps I found my feet damp, the only 
uncomfortahle resuU. of my jaunt. After din- 
ner our self-kindly-appointed escort returned 
to his home, and we late birds retired at two 
o'clock A. M. 

Monday, August 31. 

We remained within doors to-day, having 
nothing particular to do, yet we cannot leave 
here until to-morrow night, as accommodations 
on the steamer Pli/monfh, via "the Sound," can 
only be afforded us then. We were exceedingly 
late for breakfast, having arisen at nearly noon- 
tide, so were served in the small dining hall 
without regard to the menu. This afternoon I 
visited friends in Worcester, and was shown 
the beauties of that city, — the park Lake Quin- 
sigamund, the summer resort of the Chautau- 
quan Association, and upon whose waters the 
Harvard boys practice the graceful, manly art 
of row^ing, when preparing for a contest, also 
the home and birthplace of Bancroft, the great 
historian, and other points of interest. We 
returned on the evening train, and all retired 
about midnight, my cousins having been to the 
theater. 

Sepf ember 1. 

During the fresh, rosy hours of the morning 



THE CITY OF BOSTON. 73 

we remained at liome and wrote our letters. 
During the afternoon we went for a walk 
through the crooked, magnetic thoroughfares, 
and Mrs. Murphy bought a lot of Boston tea to 
take home with her, to dispense to her guests 
of the sewing circle, when recounting her pere- 
grinations through the esthetic city of learning. 
We made some purchases, souvenirs of New^ 
England, and over the soft, green carpet of the 
storied Commons returned to our temporary 
quarters, noting on our way the glistening frog 
pond and historic elm that witnessed the per- 
secution of witches, and other uncanny ceremo- 
nies of the very early Puritan days, all speak- 
ing of an anxious past linked strongly to the 
peace-crowned present. 

We visited the church of Rev. Phillips 
Brooks, which, I am told, has the finest and 
one of the best-ap{)ointed church organs in 
America, the second finest being in the Taber- 
nacle at Salt Lake City. 

Towards evening our trunks were packed 
for New York, and we prepared for traveling. 
We left the beautiful ''Vendome" for the Old 
Colony Railroad Office, and took the Fall 
River line for Gotham. We entered the pal- 
ace car " Lilac " at seven o'clock, and soon w^ere 
whirling away from Boston. I left the beauti- 
ful city I have learned to love, for its classic 



74 SNAP NOTES. 

associations and historcial interest, with regret, 
as some of the most instructive moments of my 
life have just been experienced here Viewing 
the quiet, homelike mansions of the great and 
grand Cambridge, where stalwart minds have 
worked and rested, was a pleasure to be enjoyed 
by me but once in life, and I earnestly wish I 
could repeat it. 

We arrived at Fall River at 8:30, and 
boarded tlie Plymouth, a perfect little floating 
palace, exquisitely ornamented interiorly, and 
illuminated by myriads of electric jets. The 
furniture throughout is handsome. " The 
Lowell String Band," of ten pieces, discourses 
music for the delectation of the passengers. 
We are an hour late in starting, it being now^ 
ten o'clock, whereas we should have been steam- 
ing up tiie river at nine. The call, "All ashore 
who are going ashore," must be a signal that 
we soon shall start. The music continues; at 
times the strains are most excruciating. How 
keen must have been the torture of the witches, 
if these musicians are the descendants of the 
old colonists! 

At 10:20 we start. We retire at eleven. 
Our staterooms are neat, convenient, and com- 
fortable. 



CHAPTER VI. 

GLIMPSES OF NEW YORK CITY. 

Wednesday, September '2. 

TT7E appear in sight of New York City early 
^ ' and come out to take a look at Long 
Island Sound, and, later, our destination, un- 
der low-hanging masses of fog. The first build- 
ing "greeting our coming" is an immense in- 
sane asylum, and on our left, farther on is 
Blackwell's Island, with its gray stone prisons 
and glistening cannon. As we approach I ob- 
serve hundreds of wojnen of the Island Re- 
formatory, wearing large straw hats, in ranks, 
walking around enjoying the morning air and 
sunshine. We pass under Brooklyn Bridge at 
nine o'clock, having sped past the I'urifan com- 
ing up the Sound, although she left Boston two 
hours ahead of us. 

We were conducted to a carriage by the por- 
ter, and were soon "in line" trying to make 
way to the Fifth Avenue Hotel. The streets 
were dense with vehicles of every known de- 
scription, rendering progress difficult. How- 

(75) 



76 SNAP NOTES. 

ever, at last we registered at the Fifth Avenue, 
andiipon reaching our rooms our CaHfornia mail 
was sent to us, and with indescribable avidity 
I devoured the contents of four letters from 
home, the first missives I have had from the 
loved ones, with wdiom it seems an age since I 
parted. I answered all, and wrote a note to a 
friend in Baltimore, informing liim of our ar- 
rival in New York, and likelihood of reacliing 
" Maryland, my Maryland " within a few weeks. 
We then waited for our trunks, that never came 
— until evening. 

Mrs. B. D. Murphy went out for a walk, to 
look for her old home, and familiar objects in 
its vicinity. With Martin she drove to the 
Bank of Donahue, Kelly tfe Co., to [)resent her 
letters of credit. In her absence Mr. Mai one 
called, and kindly offered to 1 e of use, knowing 
our inexperience in traveling, and possible in- 
convenience we might encounter in a strange 
city. 

We dined in our parlor and the rest of the 
party attended the Lyceum Theater, returning 
about midnight, when we retired. I had de- 
voted the hours of their absence to reading, 
and endeavoring to deciplier the stenography 
of this crude diary. 

September 3. 

With the first smile of dawn came up Mr. 



GLIMPSES OF NEW YORK CITY. 77 

Sh river's card. As I had arisen, and was 
ready for breakfast, I went down to meet him. 
He had received my note of tlie day previous, 
and, traveling at night, had reached New^ York 
City about six tliis morning. He gave us a 
cordial welcome to the East, which warm greet- 
ing was succeeded by a friendly offer of him- 
self as escort for the day. After chatting 
awhile we were joined by my cousins, and all 
breakfasted, and went immediately to do some 
shopping, Mr. S. acting as guide. Gorham's 
elegant display of silverware was supervised, 
and from the rich assortment of unique designs 
Mrs. M. selected several dozen exquisitel}^ 
wrought souvenir spoons, together with rare 
bits of art, things "of beauty," that cannot fail 
to be " a joy forever" to those fortunate enough 
to possess them through the little lady's gen- 
erosity of heart and purse. 

We thoroughly enjoyed Tiffany's Art Rooms, 
and wished we could spend a week among the 
bric-a-brac alone. Next dry goods houses were 
visited, and wherever shopping was to be done, 
until, tired and weary, we returned to lunch. 
Then Mr. S. took Mrs. M. and myself on tlie 
elevated railroad to Benziger Bros., away down 
town. I bought some souvenirs for friends, 
and Mrs. Murphy made her usual liberal pur- 
chases. Mr. S. showed" me the "little church 



78 SNAP NOTES. 

'round the corner," which edifice I was anxious 
to look at, and man}' other places of interest 
claimed my attention when pointed out by one 
so intelligently capable of instructing the un- 
informed. I came back pleased with our out- 
ing. Mr. S. invited us to attend the fireworks 
on Weehawken Heights, Hoboken, New Jersey, 
but Martin had tickets for the theater. 

We dined at 7:30, and Mrs. Murphy spent 
the evening with her uncle, Mr. Green, Mr. 8. 
accompanying her tliither, the trio, Martin, 
Maud, and Evie, attending the theater. I read, 
and wrote my letters, until the return of my 
friends. 

I do not like the climate of New York at 
this season ; it is unpleasant, the air being moist, 
and the heat oppressive. 

Sejitember Jp. 

"Up with the lark," and prepared for the 
day, arranged my trunk, and chased time until 
eleven o'clock, when the rest of the party were 
ready. Mr. Eugene Kelly called on Mrs. Mur- 
phy, and took Martin down town. After break- 
fast Mr. Shriver appeared in time to accompany 
us to Lord & Taylor's, the suit house. Procur- 
ing a conveyance suitable for the occasion, he 
drove us through Central Park, a ride I was 
most desirous of taking, to see the oft-heard-of 



GLIMPSES OF NEW YORK CITY. 79 

public breathing-place of America's greatest 
city. I always speak for myself and may say 
here that I am delighted with what I see about 
me in this beautiful sylvan retreat, with the 
pleasant outing and the agreeable company. 

Upon our return our escort guided us on the 
elevated railroad to the Battery, and up the 
Produce Exchange Building to the tower, two 
hundred and forty feet high, fourteen stories, 
whence we obtained an excellent view^ of the 
city — Castle Garden almost under us, Gover- 
nor's Island just beyond, where General Hancock 
was stationed some years before his death, Bed- 
loe's Island, with the "Liberty" statue, Brook- 
lyn Bridge, East River, the Hudson. Staten 
Island, the Narrows, or Gate, Perth-Amboy be- 
yond Staten Island, all delineated so perfectly 
and charmingly as to be a picture in the gallery 
of memory forever. Although enchanted with 
the scene and occasion, after an hour's contem- 
plation of the busy city under us, we descended 
and were shown Wall Street, where fabulous 
fortunes have been made and lost within a dnY. 
It is a narrow highway, of a few blocks, stretch- 
ing towards East River, and but for its name 
would never arrest attention. We stood at the 
entrance of Trinity Church, almost classic in 
its ancient dignity, then sauntered leisurely to 
the building containing the offices of Jay Gould, 



80 jSnap notes. 

Russell Sage, and other notable personages of 
the metropolis; and, indeed, many other sights 
claimed us, which my weary head cannot re- 
call. 

Taking the cars, we returned to the hotel 
very tired. Shortly thereafter Mr. S. intro- 
duced his sister, Mrs. T. J. Myer, and her two 
daughters, of Maryland, to our party, who are 
en route for home, from a visit to Boston, Ded- 
ham, and, later, Newport. Mrs. Myer is a 
rather tall, stout lady, with comely features, 
kindly expression, and dignified mien. Gently 
welcoming our "California delegation" East, 
she warmly and hospitably invited us to visit 
her home in Maryland, all of which I appre- 
ciate, being a stranger in a strange place. 

After dinner Mr. Shriver took us all to Wee- 
hawken Heights, on the Jersey side of tlie Hud- 
son, the vicinity being the scene, if I mistake 
not, of the Hamilton-Burr duel — now called 
Hoboken. The little five-minute trip across 
the river is peculiarly pleasing, the many gas, 
electric, and other lights illuminating the rip- 
pling waters, and the colored lights of the 
vessels giving life and beauty to the strange, 
sparkling scene. 

We were conveyed to the amphitheater, and 
there witnessed the El Dorado extravaganza of 
King Solomon, which was elegantly presented, 



GLIMPSES OF NEW YORK CITY. 81 

with seven hundred persons participating at 
once. The rich dresses, graceful posing, and 
agreeable singing were most enchanting, and 
altogether the play was entirely distinct from 
anything I have ever witnessed. The arena 
was arranged in the opon air, on the Heights, 
the sky forming the canopy, and when the walls 
of Jerusalem were burned, the smoke ascended, 
circulated in the air, and disappeared into space 
as naturally and gracefully as possible. 

We next attended the fireworks, then sat and 
listened to the concert, at which Mr. Levy, the 
cornetist, was to have played, but he failing to 
appear we returned to the ferry, and home. 
There were eleven in the party, and we enjoyed 
the unique evening's entertainment very much, 
with the cool dews of night glistening over our 
raiment in the radiance of a thousand lights. 

Saturday, September 5. 

We were up and about at eight o'clock. 
After breakfast our escort conducted us to 
the Hoffman House, to see the works of art 
displayed in the salon — "Satyr, and the 
Nymphs" of Bougereau, a "St. John in the 
A¥ilderness "(?) by Correggio, a fine piece of 
work representing Port Marseilles, valued at 
$25,000, some chaste statuary, and other articles 
of vertu. He then suggested a look at the 
6 



82 SNAP NOTES. 

Eden Musee, where are to be seen the wax- 
works after the house of Madame Tussaud in 
London, the royal heads of Europe, a bevy of 
Confederate and Federal soldiers of the late 
war, prominent musicians, actors, and actresses, 
great men of the day, etc. Below we enter the 
"Chamber of Horrors." Here most heart- 
tli rilling scenes are depicted to the life. Why 
is Millet's " Angelus'^ presented in wax in the 
Chamber of Horrors f "The Guillotine," 
"Eyraud," the brutal murderer of Gouffe, 
"Judith and Holofernes," "Charlotte Corday," 
" The Lion's Bride," " Execution by Electricity," 
are all appropriately in place representing 
horror, but why "The Angelus"? 

A funny incident happened as we were pass- 
ing from one hall to the next. The word 
"paint" in large letters was attached to the 
back of a bench, and a gentleman had just 
arisen from the seat and was seriously contem- 
plating the damage wrought on his new stylish 
trousers by the contact. The expression of 
regret was so apparent on his countenance that 
we pitied his misfortune, until Evie exclaimed: 
^' The goose ! Couldn't he see ' paint ' big enough 
to warn him, if he didn't smell it?" "A light 
breaks in upon our brain" — the immobility of 
the figure suggested that it was wax. We 
felt foolish, but enjoyed the amusing occurrence 
to its fullest. 



GLIMPSES OF NEW YORK CITY. 83 

The art gallery of the Musee is fuU of treas- 
ures, and well worth a visit, but time is flying, 
and we must leave these truly realistic -scenes 
for our own active ones of life. 

I accompanied Mrs. Murphy on another 
shopping tour, and when we returned to the 
hotel, at six o'clock p. m., we were very tired, 
faint, and hungry. I feel the depressing eff'ects 
of the climate, possibly the result on a consti- 
tution unused to close, moist, opi)ressive heat. 
The Baltimore party left for home on the three 
o'clock train, having called to say adios dur- 
ing our absence. The trio went to the theater 
in the evening. Mrs. M. arranged her pur- 
chases, packed them into trunks for home go- 
ing, and about eleven o'clock we gladly wel- 
comed "nature's sweet restorer." Was some- 
what homesick this afternoon and telegraphed 
to my sisters at the dear old home, the like of 
which I have not yet seen. 

Sunday, September 6. 

I was prepared and ready for church at 8:30; 
the rest of the company appeared at nine, when 
we breakfasted and attended the Jesuits' Church 
of St. Francis Xavier at half past eleven. We 
called at the Academy of the Sacred Heart, 
where Mrs. Murphy had studied in her girl- 
hood, and felt inclined to review the earlier 



84 SNAP NOTES. 

scenes supplied by faithful memory. Intro- 
ducing ourselves as Californians, always a talis- 
manic title in the East, we were gently invited 
within, and entertained by a sweet-faced, an- 
gelic-mannered lady in the garb of the order. 
After many inquiries about our happy land, 
she softly asked if any of us knew of Kern 
County, in California. I responded in the af- 
firmative, whereupon she questioned me about 
a nephew from whom she had not heard for a 
year or more, and about him she was very anx- 
ious. Mentioning his name, I was surprised 
to learn that the young man was one who had 
brought me letters of introduction from Vir- 
ginia, and had visited my home just two weeks 
prior to my departure on this trip. It was 
with strange pleasure that I afforded the good 
lady the information she sought. The coin- 
cidence was a peculiar one. Madame O'R. 
was clever and kind, but with this new friend 
we soon had to part, to return to lunch. 

Although it was raining, and close, yet we 
took a carriage drive to Brooklyn, over the 
famous bridge. We counted forty churches in 
sight and about concluded that "of a verity" 
Brooklyn is the "city of churches." 

While driving all through Greenwood Cem- 
etery, the day merged into a beautiful after- 
noon, with occasional showers. Here the rich 



UfJMPSES 01^' Nt:\V yo/,'K CI TV. 83 

and the great are interred, It appeared a vast 
park, with beautiful drivew^iys, ponds, trees, 
sli rubbery, lawns, and endless varieties of flow- 
ers. James Gordoii Bennett's plot is remark- 
able for an elegant piece of pure white Italian 
marble, sculptured by a master hand, represent- 
ing a woman in the attitude of prayer, whose 
vesture's folds stand out in broad relief as 
though fluttered by a passing zephyr. The 
tomb of the Stewarts and other men of wealth 
are to be seen without introduction. We were 
shown the grave and monument of Charlotte 
Canda,aged seventeen, who was thrown from her 
carriage and killed when going to attend a party 
given in honor of her birthday. The monu- 
ment is a beautifully chiseled marble in form 
of a shrine inclosing the figure of a sweet vir- 
ginal girl, suggestive of our " Lady of Lourdes," 
so prettily carved and chaste looking in its 
graceful robes folded softly around her standing 
form. Many, many elegant mausoleums called 
attention by the superiority of their artistic 
worth, but could not be mentioned in a hasty 
notebook like this. 

Recrossing the bridge, which alone is a new 
sensation to us, we reached the Fifth Avenue 
Hotel, and dined at seven, after having spent a 
delightful afternoon. 

Mrs. Muri)hy and Martin went out early in 



m SNAP NOTES, 

the evening for her " Uncle Green." The eneiv 
vating effects of the suHiy cUmate have pros- 
trated Evie ; she could not accompany us to 
Brooklyn, and has been ill nearly all day. 
Mr. Green returned with Mrs. M. and spent the 
evening with us. He is a very nice old gentle- 
man, and an interesting, well-informed talker. 
Possessing an artist soul he is by profession a 
sculptor, and I enjoyed conversing with him. 

Septemher 7. 

This morning I received letters from home. 
How happy it makes me to hear from there ! 
Later we repeated a shopping tour, then re- 
turned to luncheon, expecting Mr. Kelly, who 
invited Mrs. M. for a drive through the park. 
This being Labor day, many of the stores were 
closed, a miserable demonstration and proces- 
sion showing slighth^ liow tlie occasion is lion- 
ored. The day is bright, but again sultry. 
Mr. Kelly did not appear. 

September S. 

I was up with the dawn, and partook of our 
matin meal at eleven. Spent the morning in 
the stores with Mrs. Murphy, and the afternoon 
down town with Maud and Evalyn, a new ex- 
perience for us. I am getting tired of New 
York, and would like a lungful of good, light, 



GL/MPSES OF jYEW YORK r/TY. 87 

fresh {ur. 1 fuel very weak after my jaunt 
around town. The god of sleep offers })artieu- 
larly acceptable charms, and I resign myself 
to blissful slumber, while the rest attend the 
theater. 



CHAPTER VII. 

A TRIP UP THF: HUDSON. 

September 9. 

ADMISSION day of California ! This morn- 
ing we took the steamer Albany for a trip 
up the Hudson, to Albany, and were nine hours 
on the water. The views on both sides are as 
picturesq ue as some I have seen of the Rhine ; the 
water is as smooth as glass at times, and again 
in undulating waves sweeps nobly to the sea. 
I am told the river varies from a mile to two 
miles in width, and in the bays it is from three 
to four miles in breadth. It originally had 
several names, the French calling it "Rio de 
Montaigne;" the Dutch designated this vast 
arm of the sea " Mauritius," after the Nassaun 
Prince Maurice. The Indian names are numer- 
ous and appropriate. ' ' The Hudson" was finally 
settled as the proper title by the English in 
honor of Henry Hudson, who was an English- 
man, although under Dutch auspices. He first 
explored the river from the now metropolis to 
the capital in 1609. 

(88) 



I 77,7/* (If 77//-; Ht!l)8uN. s«» 

Taking our chairs ou tlie dtsck of llit^ well- 
appointed steamer, comfortably wrappecj, a brisk 
breeze fanning our faces, God's perfect sunshine 
smihng on us, the panorama of grandeur un- 
folds before us. On the right, or east bank, 
the Manhattanville College of the Christian 
Brothers, and elegant adjoining convent, loom 
up amid the trees, reposeful in their clustering 
wood, which "crescents more than half the 
lawn." Soon follows the home of Audubon, 
tlie ornithologist. On the west bank the Pali- 
sades, in their columnar strength, buffet wind 
and wave for fifteen miles. They are of " ba- 
saltic trap-rock " formation. Next I note the 
home of James Gordon Bennett,on Washington 
Heights, where Fort Washington stood when 
taken by the English in 177G. Fort Lee 
stands on the western bank. • Stewart Castle, 
on the summit of the Heights, is grand and 
lordly in its position of superiority and elegance. 
The Palisades continue on the west side, and 
the end of Manhattan Island is reached as we 
approach Spuyten Duyval Creek and station. 

The landscape, including Riverdale, is a 
series of pretty scenes, perfect poems of nature. 
Fort Hill Castle, the former property of Edwin 
Forest, the tragedian, was purchased for the 
Convent of Mount St. Vincent, which stately 
building stands in prominent view near the 



00 si^AP mrrES, 

river's edge', sloping lawn.s nn<l tree-girt paths 
forming a tasteful foreground. 

Yonkers is next in sight, with its notable 
feature, the old Phillipse Manor, conspicuous 
midst the leafy wold. It was built in 1682, 
and used occasionally by General Washington 
during the early struggle for independence. 

Passing Glenwood (this is the third place of 
the name I have seen since leaving California 
we are regaled with a lovely view of " Grey- 
stone," the handsome home of the late Hon. 
Samuel J. Tilden. Within cool shades of 
kindly green, uprearing its gray front to the 
sun, the mansion, characteristic of its late own- 
er's life, is open to inspection, and like him, 
too, in that it is without flaw. 

The Palisades rise higher, reaching as they 
stretch onward over five hundred feet, until the 
boundary line between New York and New 
Jersey is gained, when they abruptly cease. 
Dobb's Ferry is pointed out to me as the 
place where the intercessors for Major Andre's 
life met General Greene, "president of the court 
which condemned him to death." 

"Sunnyside," the charming cottage of our 
gentle Irving, embowered in foliage and made 
up of gable ends," is the most interesting villa 
in Irvington, " the classic and poetic spot of our 
countrv." 



A TRIP UP THE HUDSON. 91 

The residence ol' Jay Gould, on llif old 
Paulding j)ro[)erty, is a castle-like structure, 
imposingly handsome, yet my interest is more 
keenly pointed to Tarry town, where rest the 
remains of Washington Irving, in Sleepy Hol- 
low Churchyard. A simple stone, modestly in- 
scribed, "Washington Irving, born April 3, 
1783, died Nov. 28, 1859," shows the place of 
his burial. 

Here, too, near the village Andre was cap- 
tured, and on the spot lias been erected a mon- 
ument coiumemorative of the event. Strange 
to note that, coincident with the traitor Arnold's 
death in England, the tree under which Andre 
was caught was killed by lightning in the 
second year of this century. 

The village of Nyack is on our left, or on the 
west bank, nestling among the hills. Sing- 
Sing Prison buildings are made of marble, and 
the town is quite a large, pretty settlement, with 
pleasant homes and fine residences. 

The next place of interest is the Croton 
Works; they supply the metropolis with water, 
an extensive aqueduct conveying sixty million 
gallons a day to the Central Park reservoir. 

A flash of history rushes to memor}^ at sight 
of Stony Point, whose fort was recaptured by 
mad Anthony Wayne in Revolutionary days. 
The banks of the Hudson teem with historic 



i)8 • .9^.1/^ mvE^. 

lore, yet t luay only uoto places luiniliar to my 
unsophisticated mind through reading, and 
memor}^ of American history, which is fast 
fading for lack of review. 

The ruins of Fort Independence are at Peeks- 
kill, which also embraces the birthplace and 
death scene of John Paulding, one of Andre's 
captors. Near the village is the country seat of 
the late Henry AVard Beecher. 

Next on the west bank is Captain Kidd's 
Point. We all know the story of that adven- 
turous mariner and his pirate crew. The crags 
known as Dunderbergh, described by Irving, 
are sublimely picturesque, but lacking the 
"tumbling imps" and malignant spirits who 
visited dangerous squalls upon the Dutch sea 
captains that failed in respect to the goblin 
ruler. 

West Point commands attention on the blutf 
overlooking the pacitic waters of the Hudson, 
on our left, and is grandly situated. During 
the Revolution General Arnold the afterward 
unhappy traitor, was in command of this strong- 
hold. " History tells the rest." 

Continuing our "voyage" and admiring the 
restful look of the beautiful scenery, enraptured 
witli the views, at times reaching sublimity, we 
come to Newbergh, where the noble old Father 
of His Country refused the honors of kingship, 
and afterwards disbanded his arm v. 



A TRIP UP THE HUDSON 93 

At noon we descended to the dining saloon 
and took lunch. The meal was not what we 
expected, and was hardly enjoyable, so we again 
contented ourselves on deck, the cabin being 
close and " stuffy." 

Poughkeepsie, beautifully located, is called 
the "Queen City of the Hudson." It is full of 
fine residences, and has a large population, who 
appreciate the patriotic interest which the city 
enjoys, having held the State Legislature when 
New York was in possession of the British, in 
1777. We pass under Poughkeepsie Bridge, a 
valuable enterprise which connects the East 
with the mines of Pennsylvania. 

Watching forward, without notes for some 
distance, I rest my thoughts, but I take up the 
strain as we near the Caatskills — the dreamland 
of poor old Rip Van Winkle, the master char- 
acter of Irving, which will live as long as the 
Hudson flows. It is not for my feeble pen to 
attempt a picture of the mountains, it takes an 
Irving to delineate in golden wording. I am 
satisfied to gaze upon the woody uplands that 
kept the admiring attention of our charming 
writer and historian of the Hudson, until they 
"melt into hazy distance," and, gazing in en- 
chanted reverie, my heart goes out to poet, 
artist, sculptor, and actor, for each is keeping 
vivid the fairy charms depicted of these higli- 
lands by the chaste and gentle Irving. 



94 SNAP NOTES. 

The air is so fresh and bracing that one can- 
not remain long under the dreamy influence. 
There is a station on the east bank called Stuy- 
vesant, after the old Dutch governor, and some- 
where hereabouts resided Martin ^^an Buren. 
The Convent of the Sacred Heart stands high 
on the western slope, and is an elegant institu- 
tion, conducted by the "Madames " for the higher 
education of young ladies. The old manor 
house of the Van Rensselaers still rests on the 
eastern shore, and is certainly a "relic of antiq- 
uity," for it was built in 1640. 

Resting my eyes I aw^ait the arrival of our 
steamboat at the capital, which we reach at 
six o'clock — one hundred and forty-four miles 
from New York City, and I'm glad to land. 

A sensational experience awaited us upon 
leaving the boat. The hotel men were scream- 
ing the names of the houses they represented 
and pulling passengers every way but the one 
they wished to go. They kept up the deafening 
sounds, confusing and unpleasant, until w^e 
were safely within a coach. We aimed for the 
"Delavan," where we registered. 

After supper we took a carriage for a drive 
around the city. We were shown the magnifi- 
cent Statehouse, wdiicli they tell me has cost 
seventeen millions already, and when completed 
will exceed in size the capitol at Washington. 



A TBIP UP TLE HUDSON. 95 

It is certainly a noble structure, but as yet un- 
finished. 

We enjoyed the Washington Driving Park, 
in which stands a bronze statue of Robert Burns, 
erected by the Scotch citizens. An artificial 
lake underlies fine sheltering trees, a shining 
gem of beauty. Thence the homes of lumber- 
men, bankers, merchants, and business men 
attracted our attention, as they face the park on 
Ingle wood Place, and are perfect dreams of 
luxury. I was desirous of seeing some of the 
old Dutch houses, and saw one of the oldest in 
Albany. It stands on a corner, a quaint old 
brick building, used as a grocery store, and is 
marked in large figures 1710. 

The city is large, wealthy, and influential, 
and, being New York's capital, how could it be 
otherwise? 

Having seen all we could, Mrs. Murphy re- 
mained with me in the hotel, while Martin took 
Maud and Evie to the theater. They returned 
about eleven o'clock, and we prepared to retrace 
our trip to New York City via New York and 
Hudson Piver Railroad, leaving Albany at 1:30, 
arriving in New York City at six o'clock this 
morning. It was a pleasant, bright trip. I 
enjoyed the few hours' rest afi'orded by the cars 
coming down the east bank of the storied Hud- 
son. 



CHAPTER VIIL 

THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE. 

Thursday, September 10. 

IMMEDIATELY upon arriving we retired 
to our rooms for a rest. We found letters 
from home and Baltimore. During the day 
we visiteJ St. Patrick's Cathedral, on Fifth 
Avenue, a large, grand edifice of white stone, 
with handsomely carved marble altars. I did 
not particularly admire the elegant structure, 
as it appeared to me cold interiorly, and exteri- 
orly seemed to suggest itself a monument to 
the architect's skill, without the inviting air 
which calls, " Ye that are weary and heavy 
laden," etc. The steps leading to the door of 
the superb edifice are few, wliich is an advan- 
tage, and the symmetrical harmony of the 
building is not marred by the peculiar idea of 
economy which places a hall beneath, to the 
inconvenience of churchgoers, especially old 
people whose climbing days are over. 

I went down town with Mrs. Murphy and to 
call on Fr. Healey, West Fourteenth Street, but 

(96) 



THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LO VE. 9? 

foiuul liim not. Returning to the hotel, we 
dined late, and Martin took Maud and Evie to 
the theater. 

Fr. Healey came to spend the evening. He 
was a pla3aiiate of Mrs. M.'s New York cliild- 
hood, and was pleased to see her. He is a 
bright, intelligent man, whom I am happy to 
meet. He kindly invited us to Cone}^ Island 
to spend a day with his sister and other rela- 
tives, but our arrangements to leave here are 
almost completed. He contemplates attending 
the funeral to-morrow^ of Mrs. Riordan, mother 
of the late Rev. J. J. Riordan, founder of the 
Emigrants' Home, Castle Garden. 

September 11. 

Arose at 8:30 and prepared my baggage for 
Baltimore via Philadelphia. After breakfast 
w^e took the' ferryboat about eleven o'clock, 
crossed the North or Hudson River into New 
Jersey, and boarded the Pennsylvania train en 
route for the Quaker City. 

We soon cross the river over the drawbridge, 
and stop at Newark, a fine, thriving city, whose 
birth antedates the Revolution. Then, skim- 
ming onward, we pass a station marked " Wa- 
verley." The country looks well for farmingand 
grazing; the trees are extensively spread but 
small sized. Elizabeth is the name of another 

7 



98 SNAP NOTES. 

station and town. We are rapidly passing 
many others, but I find it difficult to catch the 
lettering, the train is speeding so swiftly. 

Menlo Park is a familiar title, where stands 
a pretty village with pleasure grounds and 
drives, natural trees and shrubbery, shady and 
fresh looking. Gazing about and longing for 
information, enjoying all I can see, I drop my 
pencil until coming into Morrisville, Pennsylva- 
nia, after which I note Landreth's Farm and 
Garden Seed Place, founded in 1780. It is a 
prosperous appearing, extensive estate. The 
broad lands of Pennsylvania are excellent for 
ranching purposes, and there are many richly 
laden orchards scattered around in sight. 

Germantown Junction is called, and, looking 
out, I behold smoking chimneys everywhere, 
and suppose we have entered a manufacturing 
city of no mean importance. I wonder if my 
memory is correct in locating this as the place 
occupied by the British when surprised by 
Washington in 1777. 

Leaving the smokestacks of Germantown 
we cross the river and gain the city of Phila- 
delphia, where thought is lost in the sea of im- 
mense buildings and uniform rows of brick 
dwellings. 

We took a room at the Lafa3^ette Hotel for 
the day, and partook of a midday dinner. 



THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE. 99 

then ordered a carriage and drove aronnd the 
city, through Fairmount Park, for four hours. 
The charming drive along the banks of the 
beautiful Schuylkill was indeed enjoyable, and 
I took special pleasure in noting the perfect 
views of varied scenery. 

We rode over the Centennial Fair Grounds, 
and noted Memorial Hall, 1876, as the monu- 
ment of that great year, remaining in the park, 
also the superb fountain erected by the Mary- 
land citizens of Philadelphia, being a gigantic 
figure of Moses as a centerpiece, standing upon 
a firm foundation of massive rock. Around 
this imposing form are the handsome marble 
full-size statues of Father Matthew, the Apostle 
of Temperance, Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, 
the fearless Signer, Most Rev. John Carroll, 
the first Archbishop of Baltimore, and Com- 
modore John Barry, the illustrious Wexford 
man, who so ably distinguished himself in the 
American naval service. Here, also, is a basal- 
tic column from the Giant's Causeway, Ireland, 
duly inscribed. A large figure of Christopher 
Columbus also adorns a place in the park, pre- 
sented by the Italian citizens. A fine statue in 
bronze on a granite pedestal of General Meade 
is an attractive feature. 

The house of William Penn was shown us, 
which we viewed with curiositv and interest. 



100 .SNAP JS/OTES. 

It is certainly a relic, and well prized by the 
State bearing the good old Quaker's name. A 
statue of Jeanne D'Arc and a beautiful marble 
of Niobe are exquisite pieces of art. 

Boating on the river is a most pleasurable 
pastime, and I think much time could be happily 
spent amid these scenes of sylvan beauty. The 
superb Statehouse, supplanting the historic 
one which held the cracked bell of liberty for 
so many years, Wanamaker's stores, and a 
thousand other objects of note, were seen and 
talked over by our vigilant little band. 

At 7:30 p. M. we took the Pennsylvania line 
for Baltimore, dining on the car, with mirth 
and jollity for salt and spice. At 9:45 we were 
ushered into the city of noble Calvert, and were 
considerably amused w^hen searching for con- 
veyances to the Rennert House. Nothing bet- 
ter than old rattletrap hacks were presented, 
and finally our party was divided up for occu- 
pancy of two coupes and "rattled o'er the stony 
street," at a " two-forty rate," to our destination. 
The city seemed perfectly still. 

Registering at the Rennert, we were assigned 
to rather pleasant rooms, and retired to rest at 
midnight. The ominous mosquito bar envelop- 
ing the couches took me back in spirit to Stock- 
ton, California, where Julia Weber one night 
kept guard over my slumbers lest the "galley 



CHAPTER IX. 

A VISIT WITH CARDINAL GIBBONS. 

Saturday, September 12. 

TT^ARLY bird and luckless worm, which is 
-Li which in this instance? I am up and 
prepared for breakfast, when a friend's card ap- 
pears, so I repair to the parlor to receive Mr. 
A. K. Shriver, who kindly welcomes us to Bal- 
timore, then telephones to Mr. D. J. Foley and 
other friends. The rest of the party appearing, 
we all breakfast together. 

Mr. Foley is soon presented, and I am cor- 
dially impressed with his genial manner, which 
proclaims at once friendship's sacred charm of 
sincerity, in the warmth of his happy greeting. 
His kind blue eyes recall my good mother's 
gentle features. My heart quickens at sound 
of his cheery voice, and his felicitous smile is 
full of winning trustfulness. 

Mr. Mark Shriver is next introduced, whom 
I have mentally photographed as "a man 
above his kind," a loyal friend, a brave patriot, 
yet tender hearted as a woman, and I think 
the picture is true. 

(102) 



A VISIT WITH CARDINAL GIBBONS. 103 

They invite us to go upon the roof of the 
hotel to obtain a bird's-eye view of the city, 
which we do, and behold the beauteous broad 
panorama spread before us. The grand sweep 
of the " blue Patapsco's billowy waves " sug- 
gests majesty and power, and the rich splendor 
of the warm September sun heightens and 
brightens the vivid scene. Old Fort McHenry, 
directly east of us, is a relic of the War of 1812, 
as everybody knows who kens of the circum- 
stances of Francis Scott Key producing that 
deathless song of the nation, the "Star-spangled 
Banner," and, strange to remark, to-day is the 
anniversary of the great fight; flags are flying, 
processions moving, etc., but for a city the place 
looks deserted. 

After calling attention to each object of in- 
terest, the gentlemen conclude that we might 
return to the lower world, and they kindly ac- 
company us to the cathedral, and tender a 
history of the ancient pile, with an opportunity 
to inspect some fine old paintings, two of which 
were presented to the Baltimore Cathedral by 
one of the kings of France. The ladies of the 
Altar Society are in attendance and politely 
reveal to our admiring eyes the elegant vest- 
ments of exquisitely wrought cloth of gold 
worn by the dignitaries of the church during 
the council, and other items of lesser interest. 



104 SNAP NOTES. 

The interior of the cathedral casts a "dim 
religious light" that seems to softly press the 
soul to pious prayer. The space around the 
grand altar has recently been enlarged, and a 
tine piece of work accomplished overhead in 
the })ainting of the transfiguration. 

From the edifice we were led to the residence 
of His Eminence Cardinal Gibbons, and pre- 
sented to the Primate of America. In the 
meantime Thos. Foley, Mr. F.'s only son, had 
joined the party, a handsome young fellow, 
dark and dangerously fascinating to the young 
ladies present. 

When we were shown into the reception 
room. His Eminence entered without delay, 
saluting us most kindly. He is a dignified 
gentleman, of uncommon magnetic power, a 
student of rare attainments, whom to see is to 
love. After a pleasant chat, during which he 
expressed himself as liappy to have received 
us, he extends his hand in blessing, we each 
kiss his ring, and take our departure, well 
pleased with the audience accorded us by His 
Eminence, through Mr. Foley's thoughtfulness. 

Next we visit the German Church of St. Al- 
plionse, which interiorly resembles the cathe- 
dral of Boston. Thence we are escorted to the 
Visitation Convent, where, for the first time in 
my life, I converse with cloistered nuns. As 



A VISIT WITH CARDINAL GIBBONS. 105 

we await the appearance of Sister Benedicta, 
sister-in-law of both Mr. Foley and Mr. Shriver, 
I look curiously about me. The small recep- 
tion room is partitioned from the hall by iron 
grating, the first row being iron bars, placed 
perpendicularly, and about the thickness of 
inch pipe; the second row is crossbarred. It 
looks to me the most prison-like place I ever 
entered. 

My surprise is soon, broken when a happy 
nun appears at the double "fencing," and in 
cheerful tones exclaims: ''Now, whom do I 
know? I'm sure ^/hs is Fannie Miller!" My 
start of astonishment is noticed, and I am in- 
troduced to Sister Benedicta, who cordially wel- 
comes each in turn, and, with the Rev. Moth- 
er's permission, conveys us all through the 
convent, which I was most desirous of visiting. 
Sister Benedicta Sanders has been an inmate of 
this abode of peace for over forty years, during 
which time she has not been outside of the 
convent walls, vet, strange as it may seem to 
my Protestant friends, she is a bright, intelli- 
gent, happy woman, a successful teacher, an 
elocutionist of no mean order, a writer of abil- 
ity and strength, yet an huml)le follower of 
the blaster, who i)romises reward in the pres- 
ent time, and life everlasting liereafter, to those 
who shall leave home and parents and friends 



106 SNAP NOTES. 

to follow Him. She inquired for Marcella A. 
Fitzgerald, and sent her messages of love. I 
expect to call again, and shall enjoy another 
visit, never yet having been in the atmosphere 
of learning without feeling its influence. 

We return to lunch at the Rennert, and dur- 
ing the afternoon, upon Mr. Shriver's invita- 
tion, we take a long, enjoyable drive through 
the park. Without doubt Druid Hill is the 
finest park I have seen. Its natural advan- 
tages surpass those I have been in — its shady 
nooks and sunny glades, winding driveways 
and charming views, quaint old moss-covered 
trees and fragrant mistletoe, suggestive of 
Druidic rite, and the extensive green lawn, all 
cling to the memory in hallowed beauty. 

The "Maryland" House of the Centennial 
has been removed to Druid Hill from Phila- 
delphia, and stands upon an eminence, com- 
manding a picturesque outlook. 

Upon our return we enter and inspect the 
elegant Jenkins Memorial Chapel — a thing of 
beauty indeed. It is built of gray stone, has 
valuable insertions of art for windows, an ele- 
gantly carved altar, beautiful pictures, and over 
all an air of perfect finish, which harmonizes 
the whole. I believe Joseph A. Ford, Esq., is 
our representative on tlie coast of the family 
wliicli has erected this excellent edifice. 



A VISIT WITH CARDINAL GIBBONS. 107 

Beaching our rooms we prepare for dinner, 
after which Mr. S. takes Misses Maud and Evie 
through the market, w^hich they enjoy, and to 
the candy stores. We retire about eleven, very 
tired. I write home before retiring. 



CHAPTER X. 

ROSELAND AND ENNISCORTHY, TYPICAL SOUTB- 
ERN HOMES. 

Sunday, September 13. 

■JY/TR. SHRIVER took us to the German Churcli 
-^*-*- this morning, after which he got a carriage 
and drove us to Mrs, Myer's countr}^ place, " Rose- 
land," to spend the day. Mrs. Murphy and 
Martin went to Washington, as the latter is due 
at Georgetown, and his mother wishes to se- 
cure another week's outing for him after enter- 
ing his name. We all returned in the even- 
ing. 

"Roseland" is a beautiful spot, about nine 
miles from town, a typical Southern home, that 
is always full of gay company, which is hos- 
pitably entertained — if we may judge by our 
own reception. The vast lawn in front of the 
generous porch is smooth, green, and pretty, 
edged with blooming rose trees. 

Here I met friends whose names are familiar 
words, AVill M3a^r, for instance, of whom I had 
heard for years from Mary Fole\^, and to whom 
she was afterwards married. I judge him to])e 

(108) 



ROSE LAND AND ENNrSCORTHY. 109 

a- man of tliorougli integrity, modest in man- 
ner, talented, and kind. The young ladies of 
the houseliold appeared bright and jolly, and 
fond of society. 

After a pleasant day ^ye turned homeward, 
})assing Mt. Hope Retreat, where I have a sick 
friend, Avhom I shall call upon ere leaving 
Maryland. 

Monday, September lit.. 

Mr. Foley called this morning about eleven 
o'clock, before we had breakfasted, and re- 
mained with us almost continuously. He 
chartered a boat and took us down the river 
beyond Fort McHenry, accompanied by his son 
and Mr. 8h river, to view the city from the 
riverside, and we could ask no greater enjoy- 
ment than w^as afforded in this sail. A brisk, 
freshening breeze was blowing, and Mr. Foley's 
liat w^as swept from his head into the water. 
The skipper turned his boat and secured the 
hat with a dipping net. We landlubbers were 
pleased to place foot on te^rra firina after the 
unique little voyage. 

We next ascended the stairways to the dome 
of the courthouse, whence we were assured an 
excellent vista awaited us. We were presented 

to Mayor Mc , who, like a new^ college 

graduate, seems to feel his weight of honors, 



110 SNAP NOTES. 

and looks perfectly conscious of his new title 
and position. 

We visited the art gallery of Myer, and 
Hadien's store, then took our lunch, and pre- 
pared for a visit to " Enniscorthy," Mr. Foley's 
country place. 

We, as Mr. F.'s guests, took the B. & 0. 
train at Camden Station, reaching Ellicott C'ity 
in half an hour, and ''Enniscorthy," six miles 
further, in another thirty minutes. The views 
along the route are truly beautiful; the stone 
bridges are perfect pictures to me, and the loca- 
tion at Ilchester of the house of the Redemp- 
torist Order is romantic and grand. 

We met Mr. Frank Murphy on the train, a 
delicate-looking, refined young man, connected 
with the publishing house bearing his familiar 
name. He is summering at Ilchester. 

At '* Enniscorthy " we were received by Misses 
Lillie and Nannie Foley, and their aunt. Miss 
Sanders, who very cordially greeted us, and 
hospitably welcomed our coming. Miss Lillie 
is somewhat tall, with brown eyes and Titian 
bronze hair, is clever of speech, intellectually 
bright, with an independent air, and ever a 
kindly Christian spirit. Miss Nannie is of 
medium height, fair-haired, with "eyes of most 
unholy blue," a faultless complexion, sweet in 
disposition, and the Martha of the household. 



noSELAND AND ENNISCORTITY. Ill 

Miss Sanders, their gentle aunt, is one of the 
sweetest characters I ever met, and completes, 
with "little Josephine," the home circle of 
"Enniscorthy." 

Dinner was announced at six o'clock, and 
thereafter the evening was most pleasantly 
beguiled with cards and music. I was charm- 
ingly entertained by Miss Lillie with an ac- 
count of her travels abroad and visit to Ober- 
ammergau during the Passion Play. I found 
her an exceedingly interesting, congenial com- 
panion, what Englishmen call "fetching" in 
appearance, but not particularly pretty — one 
whom I think to know^ is to learn from. We 
felt perfectly at home with these almost new 
friends, their geniality of manner superinduc- 
ing that effect. 

"Enniscorthy" is in Howard County, and was 
originally part of the Carroll demense, but 
purchased some years ago by Mr. Foley as a 
country summer home for his family, which 
they called in honor of his birthplace in Wex- 
ford, Ireland. The employes are all colored 
people, excepting the farmer and his family 
who have charge of the place. The household 
servants, colored, models of neatness, are sys- 
tematic in their manner of waiting at table, 
and graceful as fawns. 

As I now prepare to retire, about midnight, 



m SNAP NOTES. 

I try to conjecture " wliat dreams may come," 
as I am told they may be realized when 
dreamed under a strange roof. 

Tuesday, September 15. 

Awakened by the bell, we rise at eight o'clock, 
breakfast, and walk around the farm. During 
the outing I find many varieties of fern unlike 
our native Californians, which I would like to 
transplant to Miller Hall. 

Returning to the house, the carriages await 
us, and we are driven to Woodstock College, 
the novitiate of the Jesuits, a most enchanting 
woodland home, where kind Fr. Sabbetti takes 
great pride in piloting us through labyrinthian 
pathways and flower-girt avenues, to inspect 
gardens and other interesting scenes surround- 
ing the lovely site. Fr. Sabbetti is generous 
with his floral beauties, and we leave at mid- 
day rich with nature's dainty treasures — thor- 
oughly pleased with the drive, and Woodstock 
charmed. 

Reaching "Enniscorthy," we are met by 
Nannie, whose sweet face, en wreathed in smiles, 
cheers our way to luncheon, after which lawn 
tennis and pitchette are indulged in. Lilhe 
invites me for a drive; I accept, and in her 
cart we speed away to St. Charles Seminary, 
through which she unceremoniously initiates 



ROS ELAND AND ENNISCORTHY. 113 

me, introducing me to Fr. Griffin, then around 
the grounds, giving snatches of its history as 
she proceeds. The Sulpicians here and Jesuits 
at Woodstock evince taste beyond praise in the 
elegance of their landscape gardening and 
neatly-arranged pathways and hedges. 

From 8t. Charles we drive to Doughregan 
Manor, the summer home of the Carroll family, 
who are now in Europe. The house is in colo- 
nial style of architecture, painted white, a ver- 
itable home of comfort and beauty. 

Handing over our equipage to the care of an 
aged negro, whom I understand to have been 
an attache to the servants' staff of the famous 
Signer, we wander around to see the conserva- 
tory and spacious, neatly-kept lawns, the fine 
old trees, beautifully-modeled flower plots, and, 
not least, the handsome chapel, where I note a 
slab of marble mosaicked into the wall, on the 
gospel side of the altar inscribed: — 

Charles Carroll of Carrollton, 
Born Sep. 20th, 1737. 
Died Nov. 14th, 1832. 

On religious occasions in the slave days the 
body of this chapel was filled with representa- 
tives of the dark race owned by the Carrolls, 
the pews on each side of the altar being re- 
served for the family and their friends. 

It was a novel sensation to me to kneel and 
8 



114 SNAP NOTES. 

pray before the altar upon wliich had been laid 
tlie petitions of tlie brave hero who erected this 
slirine and was equally faithful to his country 
and his God. 

The shades of gloaming warn us of the neces- 
sity of returning. We find the i)arty at "En- 
niscorthy " engaged in a game of croquet, whicli 
occupies the moments "'tween the gloamin' 
and the murk," until dinner, after which we 
enjoy the calm evening on the porch, and 
cards in the drawing room. Miss Lillie grouped 
us for a picture and kodaked us by flash light. 

AVe retire with the memory of a very de- 
lightful day to soothe our eyes to slumber. 



CHAPTER XL 

SCENES IN GETTYSBURG. 

Wednesday, September 16. 

WE left the lovely scenes of "Enniscorthy " 
this morning to take train for Baltimore, 
to keep an engagement with two friends. Driv- 
ing with Messrs. Fole}^, Jr., and Shriver to 
Ellicott City, heartily imbibing the fresh air, 
enjoying the hush of the morning stillness, we 
reached our station in time, but the train was 
late. We arrived in Baltimore at 10:30. While 
awaiting my friends, I occupied the interim 
writing to the dear ones at home an account of 
my stay at Mr. Foley's. 

I lunched with friends and enjoyed tlie fish 
menu very much. My cousins joined me later. 
We then went for a drive over Crimea Hill, a 
sequestered, picturesque driveway, resembling 
our Marin County mountain roads, through an 
almost primeval forest, where I secured some 
ferns to send home. After dinner several 
friends came to spend the evening with us, 
whose society we enjoyed. Retire late, very 
weary. 

(115) 



116 SNAP NOTES. 

Thursday, September 17. 

Accompanying a friend, and armed with a 
letter of introduction to Sr. Catherine, Superior 
at Mt. Hope, from Mr. Foley, I start for the Re- 
treat, on the train. In twenty-five minutes we 
whirl into the station, at the hospital, wdiere we 
have an invalid friend, whom I am desirous of 
seeing ere leaving Baltimore, and liave taken 
occasion to call to-day. After spending a 
couple of hours within the solitudes of this 
saddening place, we returned, reaching the 
Rennert at midday. 

After lunch we prepare for a trip, tendered 
us by Mr. Shriver, and at 3:30 leave for Gettys- 
burg ma the Western Maryland Railroad, arriv- 
ing in the famous battle burg at 7:30. Here 
we are lodged at the City Hotel, the best the 
place affords, conducted by a man as capacious 
of build and size as John L. Sullivan. His 
voice is as sonorous as the western wind, and 
he glibly assigns the ladies to tAvo rooms, which 
boast four couches, with the assurance to Evie 
that if she rolls out of the window ]]er fall will 
be broken by a roof several feet below — very 
comfortable sensations to sleep on. 

^Irs. Murphy, Maud, and Mr. Tom Foley 
have just returned from up town, where our 
chaperon laid in her usual supply of souvenir 



SCENES IN GETTYSBURG. 117 

cucharas. She presented me witli a lovely 
orange spoon. I note its characteristics, kiss 
the donor, and place it with my beauteous col- 
lection, the gift of the same generous soul. 

Friday, September 18. 

After breakfasting, we wander about until 
ten o'clock, when the large, convenient carryall 
secured by our entertainer is brought up, and 
we seat ourselves within its comfortable space 
to view the scenes of the bravely-fought battle 
that was "to decide the fate of human liberty." 
It is a very warm, sunny day, but the ride is 
most agreeable, over the ground of the first 
day's contest. To our left, on the south side, 
as we drive over Chambersburg turnpike, is 
seen Cemetery Ridge, and farther still Gulp's 
Hill, which Longstreet was aiming to possess. 
Near at hand, on our right, is a yellow build- 
ing, the Seminary, from the cupola of which 
General Buford took observations of the sur- 
rounding country. It gives the name Semi- 
nary Ridge to the elevation upon which it 
stands. 

Taking a northerly direction from the turn- 
pike to an avenue, on our right is shown the 
line of battle, the position of the Federal troops 
being commemorated by a row of stately mon- 
uments, white marble, granite, and other valu- 
able stone and bronze predominating. Each 



118 SyAP NOTES. 

liandsomel3Mvrought design signifies where 
regiments were stationed. Tliey were placed 
there either by the State to which the regiments 
belonged, or by the surviving comrades, under 
the auspices of the "Battlefield Memorial Associ- 
ation." Over the scene of cruel carnage, thirty 
miles square, there are already four hundred of 
these majestic memorials, with many more in 
course of completion. One Confederate sliaft 
was permitted to be placed. It was done by 
the State of Maryland. 

They are too numerous for me to particular- 
ize, but I may remark the spot where General 
Reynolds was killed, whereon, in heavy gray 
granite, is told the tale of his fall, supposed to 
have been a shot from an ambushed sharp- 
shooter, which struck him in the eye and passed 
out over his left temple. He fell from his horse 
and his neck was broken. 

A\^e pass along, reading and inspecting mon- 
uments, until our eyes are weary with the 
white glare of sunshine on the marble. We 
halt at the spring where General Lee's soldiers 
lay sick on the second day's battle, from drink- 
ing the waters, which were supposed to have 
been poisoned. To us it tasted of magnesia 
and soda. Little wonder that the poor fellows 
became ill, in the scorching heat of July's rag- 
ing sun, and the added warmth of desperate 
conflict. 



SCENES IN GETTYSBURG. 119 

Making the circuit, we return to the town 
ahout noon, liaving pleasantly and instructively 
spenira forenoon of intense interest. Wander- 
ing around, I make inquiries respecting the 
place, and am informed that the present site of 
Gettysburg was originally the property of Wm. 
Penn, but about 1780 came into the possession 
of a man named Gettys, w^ho divided it into 
town lots, and called it after himself, " Gettys- 
burg." Entering the "Antiquarian Store" we 
are shown many curios, most of which have 
been picked up on the field, among them a Con- 
federate and a Federal bullet which met in the 
air and w^ere welded, by the force, into one. 

Returning to tlie hotel we lunch and prepare 
for the afternoon's excursion. Mr. Herbert 
Shriver, of Union Mills, and Mr. Brown, of 
Philadelphia, drive up to spend the day with 
us, and after lunch join us in the coach, when, 
with a competent guide, Mr. Minnock, we start 
off to inspect Cemetery Ridge and the entire 
stage whereon was enacted one of the most 
bloody dramas of the war. It is a grand ex- 
cursion, full of revelation, instructive and beau- 
tiful. 

Attention is directed to the house wherein 
Jennie Wade was killed by a shell while mak- 
ing bread. We soon reach the cemetery. It 
is divided in the center by a long, shady lane. 



120 SxVAP NOTkS. 

On the left, as we approach, are interred the 
civilians, the right side being reserved for the 
military graves, where lie hundreds of soldiers, 
many of them with blank slabs marking the 
mound, unknown, but of course not unwept. 
A New York State monument calls attention, 
being ninety-two feet high and costing $5,000. 

The cemetery is designed in a semicircle 
running north and south, with the elegant na- 
tional monument in the center, fashioned after 
the Immaculate Conception Monument in 
Rome, surmounted by the Goddess of Liberty, 
and four handsome figures around the pedes- 
tal representing Peace (a mechanic). War (a 
U. S. soldier). History (a woman sitting with 
open scroll in her hand), and Plenty (a woman 
with sheaves of wheat). 

We drive through the avenue, and alight 
from our carriage to walk up Cemetery Hill, 
listening as the guide recites the story, in pa- 
thetic, aye, poetic language, of the cruel strife. 
He points out the almshouse, which we had 
seen in the morning, and mentions young Wil- 
kinson, who amputated his own shattered limb 
with his sword, dragged himself to the alms- 
house, used as a hospital, but died next morn- 
ing, after a night of insufferable pain. 

The Blue Ridge Mountains, in cerulean tint, 
line the western horizon, and the valley of the 



SCENES IN GETTYSBURG. 121 

Cumberland stretches beyond them. The broad 
battle ground, mapped in nature's lines, lies 
before us. The charges made and their loca- 
tion are all carefully rehearsed. The breast- 
works thrown up are still at our feet, lessened 
and rounded by time. Cannons rest here and 
there, their brazen mouths closed, their deadly 
work done. The dauntless "Louisiana Ti- 
gers," under Hays, here did splendid work, but, 
laboring under great disadvantages, were finally 
repulsed. It is recorded that on this spot was 
fought one of the most frenzied hand-to-hand 
struggles of the three days' carnage. Culp's 
Hill stands serenely to the southeast, in wooded 
beauty and unforgotten glory. 

We reenter the vehicle, and, following the 
Emmitsburg Pike, are shown the scene, on our 
right, of " Pickett's Charge," the great and mar- 
velous piece of determined bravery of the war. 
Gallantly charging the Union lines across a 
field a mile broad, under a hurricane of shot 
and shell, the brave column swept grandly on- 
ward, until mowed down in its advance by the 
withering blast of belching musketry concen- 
trated on its cliivalrous front. The repulse 
was complete, and but a handful of men who 
participated in this fearful attack survived. 

Passing by the peach orchard mentioned in 
history, which has been twice planted since the 



122 SNAP NOTES, 

war, we come to grain fields, and finally are 
wending our way over the serpentine road of 
Gulp's Hill, whence we are soon led into the 
"Devil's Den," a wild, tumbled lot of bowlders, 
evidently massed by a convulsion of nature, 
with a crystalline stream issuing from their 
cavernous depths. Dismounting we view the 
uncanny spot with curiosity. It was an excel- 
lent cover for the lurking sharpshooter, and 
our guide informs us that among the clump of 
rocks fell many wounded soldiers, who lay un- 
discovered for days. He showed us where the 
bones of a Georgia soldier still lie, a kindly 
hand having lately covered them witli earth. 

Barefooted, ragged children emerge from the 
broken d(^bris with cu[)fuls of the clear water, 
wdiich they offer — not in His name — but for the 
material reward cheerfully granted by the 
bevy of visitors, who feel the effects of Septem- 
ber's ardent sun 

Pursuing our way towards the Round Tops, 
over a beautifully designed road shaded by oak 
and liickory trees, we suddenly appear before 
a large Irish cross in granite, with the Irish 
wolf lying at its base, in bronze, the monument 
of the " 69th Irish Regiment,"marking the ])lace 
where mass was said for the regiment before 
the second day's battle, when, as the priest 
raised his hand in blessing on the kneeling 



CENES IN OETTYSBUnO, 1?8 

soldiers, tlie word, ''Forward!" came from Gen- 
eral Kelly, and instantly ranks were formed, 
and the men in battle line, ready for action. I 
am i)roud of my Irish and my Faith! 

The roadway leads to Spangler's Springs, and 
we drink of the water that supplied both armies 
with refreshment during the contest. Round 
Top reached we again alight, and view the vast, 
graveyard-like valley, bristling with shafts of 
marble and granite. 

Here Mr. Minnock ex[)lains the movements 
and incidents of the second and third days 
battles, interesting to hear, but not readily 
understood by one possessed of as limited knowl- 
edge of warfare as I may claim. The trees 
hereabouts, scarred and bullet-wounded, show 
the effects of the hot fire poured into their 
midst, some lying prone upon the ground, fall- 
ing to decay, shelled by enemies not their own. 
On Little Round Top I note a life-size figure 
in bronze of General Warren, who saved the 
"Round Tops." 

Descending to the flat country we follow the 
stone wall road to a spot hallowed by a scroll 
of marble, where General Hancock anxiously 
kept watch of the day's movements and vicissi- 
tudes, directing his men, without once losing 
patience- This is near what is termed "the 
bloody angle," when the third day's battle 



124 SNAP NOTES. 

swept out regiments of the confederacy, every 
inch of the air being black with the winged 
missiles of death. The battle closed on the 4tli 
of July, 1863, after three days of mortal strife. 
General Lee, than whom no braver soldier held 
a sword, disheartened and discouraged, with- 
drew beyond the distant Blue Ridge, and passed 
a wretched night and day in sadness, his men 
sick, weary, and footsore. 

Now, my diary, there is much that I could 
not sufficiently grasp to properly place in your 
keeping, and mayhapsi have become wearisome 
relating what everybody — but myself — already 
knew. However, as I never saw the ''Pano- 
rama of Gettysburg," and never had entertained 
an idea of the magnitude of the battle until 
now, I may be excused for jotting down the 
items that arrested my interest. 

Returning via Hancock Avenue to Getty s- 
berg, we dine at the City Hotel, and Mr. Shriver 
provides two carriages for our conveyance to 
Emmittsburg, which ancient little city we set 
out for at 6:30 p. m. We arrive in Emmitts- 
burg, ten miles distant, about nine o'clock, and 
are booked at a hotel sans name, managed on 
rather primitive plans. Retiring about ten 
o'clock, very tired, we gladly welcome balmy 
sleep. 



CHAPTER XII. 

THE CITY OF EMMITTSBUKG; THE OLD HOME- 
STEAD AT "UNION MILLS." 

September 19. 

T> ISING with the break of dawn, and break- 
^^ fasting early, we are free to stroll about 
and see the peculiarities of the town. It is an 
old-fashioned, quiet place. The people are 
lazy-looking, and the streets are dirty and much 
in need of sidewalks. The stores are like the 
little country shops of suburban towns in Cali- 
fornia. The houses look old, many of them 
dilapidated, and the hotel fare is miserable. 

Mr. Shriver's sister-in-law, with her son and 
daughter, call to see us, and conduct us to the 
Convent of St. Euphemia, near the parish 
church, to see some of its inmates who are 
Californians. They are delighted to see us, and 
truly royal in their earnest welcome to pilgrims 
from the West. They accompanied us to Mt. 
St. Joseph's, founded in 1815 by Mother Seton, 
and the entire building was thrown open for 
our inspection. 

(125) 



126 SNAP NOTES. 

Our admiration of the elegant convent, a 
retreat of repose, embowered by majestic trees, 
in the heart of a broad green lawn, is indeed 
beyond expression. Its health-giving resources, 
large, excellently ventilated rooms, spacious 
grounds, beautiful gardens, with perfect clean- 
liness and order throughout, are attractions to 
which we yield unbounded homage. The 
chapel is exquisite in its finish and furnishings. 
A beautiful shrine in the garden marks the 
resting place of Mother Seton, and beside her 
have been placed the remains of the late Arch- 
bishop Bailey, her kinsman. Near by is the 
house she erected, where she lived, taught, led 
others to life everlasting, and died. Mr. Shriv- 
er's mother, now aged eighty-three, is one of the 
original fifteen pupils taught in this small 
schoolhouse, by Mother Seton, in 1815. 

Bidding adieu to our gentle friends, we are 
taken by our host to Mt. St. Mary's Seminary 
and College, where Fr. Allen is pastor and 
Superior, The drive hither is pleasant and the 
approach to the college beautiful. It is the 
institution which has reared the most gigan- 
tic minds in American church history, and I 
am happy to be privileged to inspect it. The 
paintings are ancient and elegant, the college of 
a superior standard of learning, and its situation 
romantic and isolated, on a hillside covered 



THE CITY OF EMMFTTSBURG. 127 

with evergreen sli rubbery and l)eautiful trees. 
Registering in the President's Visitors' Book, 
after a tour through the halls and grounds of 
the old college, we take our course towards 
"Haylands," the home of Mr. AVm. Shriver. 

A short distance from Mt. St. Mary's, I note 
"Clearlands," the old home of the Shorb family. 
The house, constructed of gray stone, low in 
stature, homelike in appearance, stands upon a 
knoll in bold command of a complete view of 
"Emmittsburg" and the surrounding country. 
Weed-grown and neglected, the old home and 
birthplace of chivalrous Dr. Shorb, one of Cal- 
ifornia's favorite adopted sons, rests firmly on 
its foundations. Its once- honored inmates 
have passed away ; old associations have van- 
ished; the music of their joy is hushed forever, 
yet the staunch, enduring stone remaineth. 

At"Haylands" we lunch, spend a pleasant 
hour, then hasten to the train for Westminster, 
en route for "Union Mills." Traveling through 
part of Pennsylvania, the trip is enjoyable and 
the route pretty. Quaintly-attired Quakers 
board the cars, carrying baskets of flowers and 
fruit. 

With evening's lengthening shadows we 
reach Westminster, and from the depot are 
conveyed in carriages to " Union Mills," six 
miles distant. On the train from Baltimore 



128 SNAP NOTES. 

Mr. Herbert Shriver was accompanied by Rev. 
Fr. Grauium, professor of philosophy at the 
Catholic University of Washington, who is 
coming to " the Mills " for the purpose of con- 
ducting religious service in the private chapel 
of the Shriver family. 

About dusk we arrive in sight of the old 
homestead, and I mark the air of restful com- 
fort which invites one to repose and peace 
within the sweet precincts of hospitality's arms, 
spread open over scenes as fresh and fair as 
morning's face. At the gate we are greeted by 
the Misses Shriver and their venerable lady 
mother, who has the soft, low voice that poets 
love. Gently inviting us to remove our hats 
and wraps, we are led to rooms that repeat the 
atmosphere of ease everywhere breathed in this 
charming home. 

Dinner is soon announced, and the dining 
hall fills with guests, ready to enjoy a most 
generous and delicious menu, and each other's 
genial society. The meal concluded we are 
accompanied across the turnpike to the mill 
race, and treated to a most romantic and en- 
joyable boat sail. Stepping into the little 
shallop from a picturesque, rustic bridge, span- 
ning the stream 'neath the umbrageous 
branches of a weeping willow, we are rowed 
by master hands in the art, up the winding 



THE CITY OF EM MITTS BURG. 120 

rivulet, cheered by voices in sweet song. It is 
a beautiful evening, and as .we glide along, 
round curves and shallows, the spirit of merri- 
ment rules tlie hour. Right here Evie thought 
she had encountered her kismet, but there was 
"a difference in the morning" ! 

As we stroll back to the house of our hostess, 
I inquire about it, and the reason of the title 
''Union Mills," and am informed that the an- 
cestors of the possessors of this property ob- 
tained it in 1797.. engaging in the milling bus- 
iness, and by united exertion in the management 
of flour and grist mills and a successful saw- 
mill, they designated their combined property 
as " Union Mills," which name is retained. 
The home of our entertainers was built in 1828, 
and is a commodious dwelling, located near tlie 
turnpike, and almost encompassed by neatly- 
cropped lawns and selected shade trees, among 
which I was shown a specimen of the mahog- 
any, the only one I have ever seen. 

Retiring about eleven, I enjoy somnolent re- 
pose, my mind replete with "a i)icture on the 
brain." 

Sunday, September W. 

At half past seven we are in the prayer- 
inspiriting little chapel, attending the divine 
office, celebrated by Fr. Grannan, being served 



130 SNAP NOTES. 

by Mr. Herbert Shriver and liis little son Jo- 
seph, whose grandmother walked up to the rail- 
ing to receive the blessed sacrament as spryly 
as the young people, although eighty-three win- 
ters have left their snows upon her head. 

The holy services ended, we repair to the 
breakfast room for our morning meal, and dis- 
cuss an excellent repast. Enjoying the lovely 
day we saunter about, and climb the lawn- 
covered slope to "Avalon," the home of Mr. B. 
F. Shriver, and are introduced to his interest- 
ing family. Glancing down from the porch of 
his handsome residence, a fine sweep of coun- 
try is overseen, with a living stream meander- 
ing through the center, which I am told is Big 
Pipe C-reek, so called from the custom of the 
Indians to smoke the calumet on its banks. A 
stroll "down by the old mill stream," another 
cheery row on its sparkling waters, and the 
hours roll on to midday, when we lunch. 

Another outing directs our wanderings to a 
substantial stone bridge over the creek, whose 
graceful arches mirrored in the stream claim 
my longing wish to sketch, and what a pretty 
picture I would have ! This bridge was con- 
structed in 1807, and has nobly withstood 
storm and tempest for more than eighty years. 

We w^ere initiated into the mysteries of mill- 
ing flour, which is an interesting process, but, 



THE CITY OF EMMITTSBURG. LSI 

although a Miller born myself, I am not compe- 
tent of penning the result of to-day's schoohng 
in the art which causes man to appreciate the 
moisture "of his brow." 

I have been feeling ill all this afternoon, my 
old annoyance, neuralgia, troubling me, so I 
seek the charms of repose. Mr. A. K. Shriver 
took the party out driving, and they express 
great delight and pleasure with the cruise of 
enjoyment afforded them. 

At four o'clock p. m. we attended benediction 
of the Blessed Sacrament, given by Fr. Grennan, 
and the remainder of the day passes pleasantly 
away. Maud, spicily amusing herself with a 
callow youth from across the pike, is an au- 
dible goddess of laughter — was there ever an 
other? Evalyn is engaged with me, admir- 
ing the exquisite handicraft of Miss Mollie 
► hriver, beautifully en wrought on the altar 
cloths, vestments, and other articles belonging 
to the chapel, which evinces the devout spirit of 
the gentle toiler whose fair hands accomplished 
all this dainty artistic work. After tea, which 
is indeed supper, we repair to the parlor, bid- 
ding moments speed on the wings of sweet 
harmony. Nearing the witching hour o' mid- 
night we claim Morpheus as our king. 

Monday, September 21. 

After hearing mass celebrated for a deceased 



13 SNAP NOTES. 

member of the family, we breakfasted, bade 
adios to the kind, hospitable friends of "Union 
Mills," whose voices in our " echoing hearts a 
sound must long remain," and take carriages 
for Westminster, to meet the Baltimore train, 
Fr. Grennan accompanying us. 

Rolling into Baltimore at eleven o'clock, we 
soon meet Messrs. Foley, Senior and Junior, 
who kindly come to hail our return, and with 
them we do a round of sliopping, lunching 
at the Rennert, and at 4:45 take the train 
for Washington, D. C. Over an excellently 
balanced road we rapidly speed, snatching 
glimpses of wood-embossed valleys, dimpled 
liillsj and brawling streams, and reaching 
Washington at G:30 p. m., as the gray curtains 
of dusk begin to droop. 

Taking apartments at the Arlington, a 
splendid hotel, we are again satisfactorily sit- 
uated, and prepare to acknowledge a bevy of 
letters from home, which anticipated our arrival. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

MOUNT VERNON. 
Tuesday, Sejdember '22. 

npHIS morning, at ten o'clock, we board the 
-^ Clicis. McAlester, a pretty little steamer 
that floats down the Potomac like a bird, for 
Mt. Vernon. The day is extremely warm, yet 
we imbibe the beauty of the scenery on both 
banks of the river, over which hangs in dreamy 
languor, a glamour of soft haze. At 11 :30 Mt. 
Vernon heiglits are seen, and we set foot on the 
landing, canopied, and beautified by Mrs. 
Hearst, the Regent for California. 

Pursuing our way up the slope, we reach the 
tomb of our first President, and reverently note 
its most salient cliaracteristics; thence, follow- 
ing the path, we inspect tlie mansion, the 
rooms and furniture, so patriotically reclaimed 
from the ruining possession of idle time by the 
stout-hearted women of America. 

The view from the veranda of the mansion 
is a picture for Bierstadt's brush. The blue 
waters of the almost national river sweep 

(133) 



134 SNAP NOTES. 

smoothly by, bearing stately vessels on their 
tide, that salute with flying flag and tolling 
bell this site of beauty and renown. The men- 
tal impulse to indulge in dreamy retrospective 
pleasure is peculiarly strong when standing 
upon the ground where lived and died the 
noble hero of American history, who gazed 
upon the charming scenes we now view admir- 
ingly, and w4th sincere desire to preserve in the 
"amber of memory." Mrs. Murphy had our 
group photographed on the lawn, with the 
mansion for a background. It is a neat 
souvenir of the lovely place. 

Leaving Mt. Vernon at 1:30 we steam up 
the river, passing by Alexandria, the " city of 
ruins," where we are shown the house wherein 
Colonel Ellsworth, the first victim of the Re- 
bellion, was killed; also old Christ Church, in 
which Washington was vestryman. I must 
note that in Alexandria Washington cast his 
first vote, in 1754, and his last, in 1799. It is a 
city of memories, for " 'tis a city of ruins." 

As we approach the metropolis, the Wash- 
ington Monument, standing in its towering 
might of five hundred and fifty -five feet, looks 
majestic and grand, reflected for a mile in the 
dimpling waters of the Potomac. The capitol 
also is an imposing structure seen from the 
river. 



MOUNT VERNON. 135 

Having lunched on the boat, a miserable 
meal, we have time to drive around the city 
and shop. Evie is ailing under the oppressive 
heat of the day. Martin and Maud attend the 
theater. 

Wednesday, September ^3. 

Accompanied Mrs. M. on a shopping tour, 
and then to Georgetown College, to leave Mar- 
tin. The town is not a particularly pretty 
place, the university being perhaps the chief 
building of prominence, and I am told it is the 
object which gives the town note. It is a hand- 
some gray stone structure, formidable -looking 
and somewhat suggestive of pictures I have 
seen of the new Catholic university, which I 
expect to view later. Fr. Richards took us all 
through the fine establishment, and we obtained 
a pretty view of Virginia across the river, 
Arlington Heights, formerly the Lee plantation, 
Roselands, and the monument, etc., etc. George- 
town is now called Western Washington, so 
closely does it hug the once more distant city. 

Driving back to W , we find several friends 
at the hotel awaiting us. After dinner with 
them, they escort us for a walk, showing us the 
different public buildings, etc. 

Thursday, September 2Jt,. 
The Messrs. H. and A. K. Shriver called this 



136 SNAP NOTES. 

morning, and, having secured a three-seated 
carriage, drove us to the Soldiers' Home and 
Catholic university, around by Ecklands, which 
was an excursion of most pleasing reminiscences. 
At the university we were presented to Bishop 
Keane, the "silver-tongued orator" of the Cath- 
olic pulpit. He is a man of most attractive 
address, and with whom I am particularly 
charuied. Here, too, we met Fr. Grannan, who 
kindly afforded us the pleasure of an insight of 
the elegant college interior throughout — a priv- 
ilege enjoyed through our escorts. Dr. Grannan's 
friends, and for which we are deeply indebted. 
The magnificent buildings stand on a high 
knoll in bold relief, trees girting the base of 
the eminence, and the broad front of the mass- 
ive structure is almost as enduring in strength 
as the truths taught within its granite walls. 

After lunching at the Arlington, I was invited 
to see the Botanical Gardens and Smithsonian 
Institute, all of which I heartily enjoyed. After 
dinner we all went for a walk, and Mr. S. left 
for Baltimore on an evening train. 



chaptp:r XIV. 

THE CAPITOL AT WASHINi.TON. 

September 25. 

A FTER our matutinal meal, we call for a 
^^-^ carriage and go to the capitol, hire a 
guide, and see the entire interior of the won- 
derful building, the paintings, frescoing, and 
statuary, all of a high order of art. In the 
old Hall of Representatives stands Vinnie 
Ream's statue of Lincoln, for which the 
talented little woman received from the gov- 
ernment ten thousand dollars. It is a fine 
piece of work. Bierstadt's picture of Monterey 
is not up to my idea of the artist's possibilities. 
Henry Hudson discovering the river is a finely 
conceived poem on canvas. The large fresco 
piece " Westward the Course of Empire Takes 
Its Way," illustrating the rugged road to Cali- 
fornia in 1848, is excellent. The Golden Gate 
beneath, with dear old Marin's rocky cliffs pro- 
jecting over their water-washed base, is familiar 
as sunlight. 

The United States Senate chamber is very 
handsome, and the (Jnited States Supreme 

(137) 



138 SNAP NOTES. 

Court room is plainer but serious looking. The 
President's room, where he signs the bills passed 
by Congress, is especially beautiful, the fresco- 
ing elegant. The lobby is interesting, and, oh, 
if its walls could speak ! We tried the acoustic 
properties of the old Hall of Representatives, 
where stands Franzoni's clock, and were inter- 
ested and amused. Next we visited the "Gold 
Room," where the speaker of the House re- 
ceives his friends. The lobby here is lined 
with portraits of ex-speakers, most prominent 
of whom is James G. Blaine. 

The rotunda regained we pass out. Imme- 
diately in the center of the rotunda is a bit of 
white marble, marking the spot where is placed 
in state the bier holding the remains of the 
nation's honored dead. Here rested the pall of 
Lincoln, Garfield, Grant, and others. 

Leaving the capitol, we take our way to the 
Monument and ascend in the elevator to the 
summit, five hundred feet; the other fifty-five 
feet are above us. This monument was eleven 
years building. It stands on the Potomac's 
edge and commands a matchless view of the 
river. In the elevator were about thirty per- 
sons, and we were nearly smothered in the 
crowd, being as closely packed as sardines in a 
can. 

Visiting the Corcoran Art Gallery, I was de- 



THE CA PI TO L AT WA S HI NO TON. 1 39 

lighted to see an original Paul Veronese, repre- 
senting a scene in the "Passion of Christ." I 
enjoyed the handsome pictures and statuary 
groups very much. 

I feel very tired and ill, possibly the result of 
the sultry weather and unusual walking in- 
doors, which is wearisome to me. Received 
letters from home, which, of course, were like 
dear friends' faces, welcome and pleasing. 

Saturday, September 26. 

Am very uncomfortable to-day; the sultry 
warmth is exceedingly depressing, and a fever- 
ish, malarial feeling, most unwelcome, to say 
the least, is asserting itself. Rousing myself 
from the languorous influence, I go out shop- 
ping with Mrs. Murphy, and purchase gifts for 
my California friends. My cousin friend selects 
Mt. Vernon and Washington spoons, that are 
art studies of beauty, and with the late addition 
of Baltimore, Enniscorthy, and Union Mills 
souvenir spoons, my collection from Mrs. Mur- 
phy is constantly enlarging. 

Returned to the Arlington overheated and 
ailing. On an evening train from Baltimore 
Mr. A. K. Shriver arrived, and after dinner 
took Misses Maud and Evie and myself for a 
jaunt through the park, through the grounds 
of the White House, and elsewhere. Martin 



140 SNAP XOTES. 

attended his mother on her return from the col- 
lege and gayly greets us as we enter the hotel. 
He is enthusiastic in praise of Georgetown, and 
I think will take due advantage of the oppor- 
tunity here afforded towards a liberal education. 
Now a care-free, good-hearted, unaffectedly 
humorous yo^ng man, the outlook of his future 
is excellent under the regime of Georgetown, 
after which there is much to be expected. 

Sunday, September 21. 

We all attend mass at St. Matthew's Church, 
Rev. Dr. Chappelle, the bishop elect of Albu- 
querque, New Mexico, offering up the Holy 
Sacrifice, and preaching a farewell sermon to 
liis flock, during which lie is tearfully affected. 
For the first time since leaving California Maud 
succumbs to climatic influence, and almost 
faints in church. It is very warm and sunny. 

At nine o'clock we take our breakfast, and 
retire to our rooms to write letters, Mr. S. leav- 
ing for Baltimore, and the happy "tease," 
Martin, returning to Georgetown. The oppress- 
ive heat has almost prostrated me. Am un- 
able to withstand much heat, having once been 
partially sunstruck. 

Mrs. Edward Martin, of California, is at this 
hotel with her sons, students of Georgetown. 

After an outing we retire, with our wdndows 



THE CAPITOL AT WASniNdTON. 141 

wide agape, mosquitoes lively and hungry, and 
the air heavy and hot. We find rest a wished- 
for thing with which we are not to be blessed. 

Monday, September 28. 

After returning from the breakfast room I 
feel indisposed and unrefreshed. Dr. Wales — 
beg pardon, no kinsman to the prince — has 
been sent for, and his orders are for rest and 
sleep, neither of which I may justly claim while 
traveling. However, I remain for the day in 
my room, as close as I can reach his advice. 
Am very much fatigued, the effects of immod- 
erate walking, to which I am a stranger. At 
noon Mr. Sh river came over from Baltimore, 
bringing us letters. Evening finds us packing 
for home. 

To-day Mrs. M. and Maud attended the Pres- 
ident's reception. It continues sultry and sick- 
ening. During the calm of twilight Mr. Sliriver 
took Evie and myself for a drive and kindly 
introduced us to parts of the city with a view 
of which we had not before been favored. 

The Chinese Legation, and mansions of the 
British and French Legations, with others, and 
the fire-ruined house of Secretary Tracy, wherein 
his wife perished, the house of interesting his- 
tory occupied by Mr. Blaine, and innumerable 
others w^ere shown us, W'ith a thousand objects 



142 SNAP NOTES. 

of remark and interest. The bronze figures of 
our national heroes adorning every available 
space of ground stand out in bold relief 'twixt 
our vision and the opaline sky. 

The evening was lovely. The delightful out- 
ing ended, we retraced our course, to regain our 
rooms for earlv rest. 



CHAPTER XV. 

LAST DAYS IN MARYLAND. 

Tuesday, September 29. 

TTAVE had no sleep, and but little rest all 
^^ night. I am pleased that it is our last 
day in Washington, which handsome city I 
have been able to only dreamily enjoy, the ener- 
vating climate having deprived me of all energy 
and spirit to mingle in scenes around which 
the enchantment of interest revolves. 

We take leave of Martin, who keeps bravely 
up in parting with his loved ones. Our belong- 
ings having been forwarded to the depot, Mr. 
Shriver takes charge of the party and accom- 
panies us to Baltimore, where we are to take 
the afternoon train on our homeward-bound 
trip. The Rennert is gained about noon. I 
feel wretchedly ill, alternately feverish and 
chilly, and cross as a hear. I'm sure everybody 
will know that I am a ''native daughter of the 
Golden West." Our Baltimore friends called 
to wish us Godspeed and prevailed in soft per- 
suasion to postpone our departure until the 

(143) 



144 SNAP NOTES. 

morrow. Mr. Shriver and Mr. Tom Foley ten- 
dered us "a spin" through the park, which was 
exceedingly pleasant to those feeling well and 
bright. 

Having accepted Mrs. Mark Shriver's invita- 
tion to tea, and to spend the evening in her 
sweet home of domestic bliss, thither we re- 
paired as the dusky brow of eventide began to 
lower. A warm welcome from the kindliest 
hearts in Baltimore, and the evening's pleasure 
was assured. With my dear favorite, old Hor- 
ace, I sincerely believe that nothing on this 
earth can "with a true, genial friend compare," 
and such I take our host to be, and his lovely, 
amiable, dark-eyed wife. After the prettily- 
served supper, Mr. Foley escorted Misses Maud 
and Evie to the theater, and the rest sped the 
winging hours with cards. 

During the evening Mr. C. C. Shriver and 
his charming wife, formerly Miss Faine, of Vir- 
ginia, dropped in, and in the opportunity of- 
fered to become acquainted through conversa- 
tional influence with her admirable character, 
I did not regret the awkwardness of card han- 
dling that kept me from joining the players to- 
night. 

With the waning hour towards midnight 
we betook ourselves hotel ward, and, in parting, 



LAST DAYS IN MARYLAND. 145 

the refrain of Moore, so full of sentiment, welled 
upward from my heart: — 

'^ Farewell! but whenever you welcome the hour 
That awakens the night song of mirth in your bower, 
Then think of the friend who once welcom'd it too, 
And forgot his own griefs to be happy Mith you." 

Wednesday, September SO. 

W' h the first burst of daylight I am up and 
about. Mr. Foley and Miss Lillie called, hav- 
ing traveled from "Enniscorthy" this morning. 
Upon invitation I accompanj them to their city 
house, through which Lillie leads me to inspect 
the comfortably- planned, elegantly- furnished 
home, whose solid joys keep happy the winter 
and spring months of the year, the summer and 
autumn calling its cherished inmates to the sea 
of greenery swelling and encompassing sweet 
"Enniscorthy." 

We return for breakfast at eleven o'clock, 
after which Miss Lillie and Mr. Charlie 
Murphy, of Baltimore, take us to visit the 
Johns Hopkins Hospital, a munificently en- 
dowed institution for the needy, and conducted 
on plans of magnificent liberality. Of the staff 
of physicians in charge, Dr. Osier, a refined- 
looking, entertaining gentleman, politely at- 
tends us through the beautifully-kept dormi- 
tories, wards, halls, and rooms, and throughout 
I note with inquisitive glance all modern im- 

10 



146 SNAP NOTES. 

provements and convenient appurtenances, 
with a ventilating system peculiarly its own. 
Rooms of superior comfort are reserved for 
those able to pay. The staff of nurses is not 
excelled in America; nearly all are young, 
strong, healthy-looking girls, under the care 
and direction of a competent matron. The 
hospital is the gift of Johns Hopkins, a worthy 
and creditable philanthropist of Baltimore, 
who died about eight years ago, and is now des- 
ignated as "St. Johns Hopkins" by his admir- 
ing friends. 

The memorial room is fittingly furnished 
with his own belongings. Particularly at- 
tractive is a long, expensive, massively- carved 
black table, with six legs, placed in the center 
of the room. Bric-a-brac, rich and rare, adorn 
the walls, and from this room one carries away 
a unique impression. 

The Nurses' Home adjoins the hospital build- 
ings, and we were permitted a peep into the 
matron's apartments, which bespeak the char- 
acteristics of the occupant, respectability and 
strict sense of discipline everywhere discern- 
ible. The genial Dr. Osier cunningly invited 
us to join the force of nurses, and, as induce- 
ment, admitted that one of the most aristocratic 
members of the medical staff had lately mar- 
ried one of the trained nurses — inducement 
enough, and promotion. 



L A S T DA YS IN MA R YLA ND. 147 

I am gratified with the pleasure afforded by 
this visit to the Hopkins Hospital, and liave 
enjoyed it thoroughly. Reaching the hotel, 
we find Mrs. Frank Smith, a friend of Miss 
Foley's, who has called to meet us, on Lillie's 
invitation. She is a gentle, suave lady, refined 
and kind. Mr. Herbert Shriver and his chil- 
dren also greet us, soon followed by Mr. Foley, 
and Messrs. Al. Myer and Tom Foley. At 1:30 
we accept Mr. A. K. Shriver's invitation to 
lunch, and at table form an interesting group. 

At 2:30 we drive to the B. & 0. R. R Depot, 
and sorrowfully say farewell to the dear friends 
who have been so hospitable and kind during 
our stay in their midst. Mr. Shriver, however, 
takes advantage of our westward course to 
make a business trip to St. Louis, and we are 
delighted, having found, too, the need of a man 
a distressing reality. 

Turning from Baltimore we run into Wash- 
ington, remaining fifteen or twenty minutes, 
then steam directly west, en route for Cincin- 
nati. About eiglity miles from Baltimore, 
along the Potomac and its canal, we come to 
the oft-heard- of Harper's Ferry, and cross the 
Potomac at its junction with the Shenandoah. 
The Blue Ridge drags its length to the east- 
ward. The peak of Jefferson's Rock, where 
the noble statesman harangued the people, to 



148 SNAP NOTES. 

the left, almost overhangs old "John Brown's 
Fort," and the village which was once the place 
for manufacturing arms, etc., for the govern- 
ment. The "Fort" is a small brick house and 
is not formidable-looking, yet I suppose has 
served its purpose. Stonewall Jackson's posi- 
tion on the bluff holding possession of the val- 
ley is proudly indicated, when General Banks 
was driven back in slaughter. The arsenal 
was burned, of course, but its foundation re- 
mains, ruined and worthless. 

The broad valley of Virginia stretches be- 
tween the Blue Ridge and Alleghanies, in 
places thirty miles in extent, and is a beautiful, 
wooded, fertile country, fully recovered from 
the results of the army inroads thirty years 
ago. It runs south, or to the left of us, and the 
Cumberland sweeps to the north 'neath the 
shadow of the Blue Ridge. Winding along the 
south bank of the Potomac, we pass through 
and witness scenery as boldly grand and pic- 
turesque as may be found in any part of Swit- 
zerland, or other boasted scenic country of Eu- 
rope. 

West Virginia is now to be seen at its best. 
The scarlet leaves of the dogwood are being re- 
touched by nature's brush, and other brilliant 
foliage charms the sight and claims the ad- 
miration of nature's lovers of the beautiful. 



LAST DA YS IN MARYLAND. 1 19 

The reflection of mountains, trees, blossomed 
bushes, and tangled sli rubbery in the clear 
streams is enchanting — almost ideal. War- 
noted hamlets, among which is Martinsburg, 
are being indicated by Mr. Shriver, who is 
familiar with the country hereabout. 

As twilight settles upon the silent waters of 
the river, it tips its softly-flowing ripples with 
silver and throws the tree shadows in darker 
relief, and still we skurry along at tremendous 
rate, halting but a moment at intervening sta- 
tions between Harper's Ferry and Cumberland, 
a distance of one hundred miles. Cumberland, 
the queen city of the Alleghanies, is very pret- 
tily nestled in the heart of the mountains, but 
the darkening night clouds nearly conceal 
its beauties. The Narrows suggest the Colo- 
rado Gorge, and Deer Park is brilliantly ablaze 
with electric light. Garrett's Cottage, wherein 
Mr. Cleveland spent his honeymoon with his 
lovely bride, is a feature of the place. I regret 
that the afterglow of sunset has faded, evening 
has merged into night, and I must retire with- 
out further view of this exquisite picture on 
nature's own canvas, which I so much enjoy. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

HOMEWARD BOUND. 

Thursday, October 1. 

"pESTLESS and unrefreshed, I am wearily 
^^ dull. AVe crossed the Ohio River near Mari- 
etta during the "wee sma' hours of the dawn," 
and reached Cincinnati at 7:30, but could not 
remain long, so boarded the Ohio and Mississ- 
ippi train for Louisville, Kentucky. Coursing 
along the banks of the Oliio, with Kentucky on 
our left, we pass into Indiana and find that same- 
ness in the scenery which wearies, although it is 
a beautiful, riclily-endowed countr3^ At North 
Vernon, Indiana, we take a direct course south- 
ward to Louisville. It is quite warm, but 
pleasant. 

Cincinnati is a business breathing cit}^; its 
people are active, and commendably attentive 
to their own affairs. The sandy banks of the 
Ohio, with its slow-moving waters on our left? 
is spanned by two immense railroad bridges, 
one leading to Covington, Kentucky, the other 
taking us along the road to Louisville. We 

(150) 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 151 

recross the Ohio near the latter city, and for the 
first time I see eanal locks and am shown how 
they operate, the Ohio River having a canal 
here that is kept in order, the river proper be- 
ing liable to change. 

We arrive in Louisville at high noon, and 
register at Louisville Hotel. The town is lit- 
erally alive with people, who are celebrating 
the Harvest Festival with processions, balls, 
fairs, etc. The prettiest women and hand- 
somest men I have yet seen are in this city. 
To-night they are crowding the hotel, and the 
streets are lined with people. 

We took a carriage to-day and went wherever 
fancy suggested. Drove down the fine thorough- 
fare called Broadway, where we noted handsome 
residences, also saw the new custom house, and 
the handsome Union Depot. Drove into and 
around Mr. Dupont's private park, a tame, old- 
fashioned looking place. In all the city have 
only seen two superior teams of carriage horses, 
whereas I looked for fine horses everywhere in 
Kentucky. Mules there are without number 
or character, with darkies as Jehus in every 
instance. 

We take supper, and at eight o'clock start for 
St. Louis on the 0. & M., sleeping on the train. 

Friday, October 2. 

Upon arriving at St. Louis we were taken di- 



152 SNAP NOTES. 

rectly to the Southern Hotel. After some delay 
Mr. S. succeeded in securing rooms, although 
every one had been engaged, it being the carni- 
val week, and fete of the Veiled Prophet. The 
hotel is now said to be absolutely fireproof, 
and is carried on on the American plan, It is 
thronged with guests. The city is elegantly 
illuminated. Broadway Street is lit up in half 
circles across the thoroughfare, and others have 
lamps within globes for a stretch of seven 
miles, giving an enchantingly beautiful effect- 
During the forenoon we rested. Early in the 
afternoon Miss O'Meara and Miss Taylor, with 
her brother, called to arransfe for a drive. I 
decline to go, as my malarial tendency is again 
troubling me, and I prefer to follow the doctor's 
orders and try to rest. In the evening we all 
attend the Royal Arcanum Society's Concert, 
by Gilmore's Band, a charitable institution for 
the benefit of widows and orphans. Some of 
the music is of a high order, and the songs by 
the male quartette are very fine. We returned 
early, to seek needed repose. 

Saturday, October 3. 

Misses O'Meara and Taylor called to guide us 
around town, and conducted us to the public 
library, a well-filled establishment of select 
reading matter splendidly arranged, under the 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 153 

superintendence of Mr. Anderson, a scholarly 
man, with literary taste. A superbly carved 
figure in wood of Robert Burns, with four of 
his best poems illustrated on the pedestal, is a 
unique piece of art I particularly admired in 
one corner of a room adjoining the library. 
Other fine art treasures belong here, and some 
valuable canvases are stored on its walls. 

Jewelry stores are next visited for souvenir 
spoons, and, as usual, Mrs. Murphy favors me 
with another. My friends are about to attend 
the matinee, so I return to the Southern, to 
await their coming to dinner at five. 

In the meantime I take an outing in the 
park. A life-size statue of Frank Blair, who 
saved Missouri from secession, stands at the 
entrance. The park is a pretty driveway, and 
does not seem as large as I am told it is, being- 
second to Fairmount in size. Druid Hill is 
still my favorite. 

We dined at five, then all went forth to view 
the illuminations, which presented a Monte 
Christo effect at night — the most charming and 
beautiful scene I ever witnessed, as a varied and 
magnificent luminance. 

Miss Tessie O'Meara, who is the soul of hos- 
pitality, manifests a cheerfulness in dispensing 
it that is fascinatingly magnetic. She invites 
us to her ''sweet home" for a few hours, where 



154 SNAP NOTES. 

we pleasantly discuss our trip over a menu of 
unexcelled delicacy and liberal provision, after 
which, with a little music and conversazione, we 
discover the liours far advanced and take the 
cars at the door for the Southern. Mr. John 
O'Meara gracefully shares with his sister the 
happy privilege of dispensing the honors of 
the house, and I judge him to be a man of lofty 
principles, whose character, I'm told, soars 
above reproach. The mainstay and strength 
of the household, he lovingly assists in rocking 
the " cradle of declining age," for his gentle 
mother is advanced to the years of Dr. Oliver 
Wendell Homes, and celebrates her birthday 
on the same date w4th the venerable author. 

October 4- 

W« attempted to attend mass at nine o'clock, 
but the hour h^s been changed for the summer. 
I feel very weak and feTBrtsh, an-d ^m obliged 
to keep my room for the day. Had my dinner 
upstairs, but at four o'clock am prepared for the 
evening, when we shall take our departure for 
the far West. Mrs. Murphy and the rest at- 
tended mass, til en spent some time at the Con- 
vent of the KSacred Heart, at Maryville, and 
returned at five. After supper our St. Louis 
friends attend us to the Union Depot, and at 
8:15 we enter the " Clebourne" sleeper, and, hav- 
ing crossed the river, retire for the night. 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 155 

October 5. 

Awoke this morning in St. Joseph's, an ex- 
tensive city, but at one time a modest trad- 
ing post. It was to this vicinity, I believe, that 
our pioneers first drifted. They then settled in 
Atcliison County, which, being subdivided, 
located them in Holt County, after which they 
determined to go farther west, and successfully 
reached our peerless sunland. The remains of 
Grandmother Murphy rest in Missouri soil, 
therefore the grand old State has a claim to our 
reverence and affection. 

Our attentive, generous, patient escort, Mr. 
Shriver, parts with us here, after carefully at- 
tending to the details of our baggage, and 
making everything as easy as possible for us. 
He has been most kind and thoughtful for our 
comfort, yet the "best of friends must part." 

Steaming over the southernmost line of Ne- 
braska, we find it dried and bleak looking, illy 
comparing with its fresh green appearance of 
two months ago. Here it is raining. A heavy, 
leaden sky throws a gray gloom over the land- 
scape. We are on the Burlington and Missouri 
River Railroad until we reach Denver, then 
change to another sleeper, this one returning to 
St. Louis. 

Tuesday y October 6. 
In Nebraska we encounter snow; it is ev- 



156 SNAP NOTES. 

ery where visible to Denver, where we are 
brought to a sudden halt by our engine jump- 
ing the track, and we stop with a quick jolt. 
Ordering a carriage, Mrs. Murphy takes charge, 
and we are raj^idly deposited at the Union 
Depot, where she secures passage on the next 
train to Salt Lake. Breakfasting at the depot 
restaurant, the steward comes forward to inquire 
regarding our whereabouts since he had seen 
us at the Windsor two months ago. We are 
all amused, and Evie's countenance is sub- 
merged in laughter. 

On the "Buda" vestibule car w^e resume our 
journey. Snow, snow, snow, on every side. 
The mountain steeps, rugged and wild, are 
wrapped in soft white blankets of snow, and as 
we approach the great Royal Gorge of the 
Arkansas, we take seats at the rear of the car to 
get the benefit of the view. The cliffs seem 
very familiar to me, so indelibly impressed are 
they upon my memory. The rest of the party 
seem very well, but I feel weary and weak. 
We lunched on the cars at Palmer Lake, and 
dined at Salida, Monte Christo Hotel, where 
we had a good warm meal. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

SALT LAKE CITY. 

Wednesday, October 7. 

WE are up at 7 o'clock and breakfast at 
Palmer House, near the desert. A few 
miles more and we cross Green River and come 
upon the desert, which we traveled over by 
night before. It is a lengthy stretch of desolate, 
sandy country, with only here and there tufts 
of desert grass. Sand is drifting everywhere, 
and the eye only meets desolation as it wanders 
in search of an oasis. 

We reach Price about eleven o'clock and 
lunch on the car, as we pass through Castle 
Gate. Here a jewelry vender enters our par- 
lors and Mrs. Murphy purchases spoons, etc. 
Evie asked the name of a station, and the itiner- 
ant jeweler answered, "'Helper,' and don't yon 
think one needs a helper here ? " Evie collapsed. 

The foliage has all changed. The gorgeous 
dyes of Autumn, the full-blown matron of the 
year, are in strong contrast with the green of 
two short months ago. Only industry and 

(lo7) 



158 SNAP NOrKS. 

Mormonism could thrive in this sage-ridden 
country. Tlie Book Mountains are a curiosity 
indeed, the strata, or layers, lying like books, 
even and continuous, and they carry the eye 
along in wonder until the next bowlder repeats 
the last or reaches more determinedly to cloud- 
land. 

At two o'clock we steam along through the 
happily reclaimed Great Salt Lake Valley, which 
is again extended before us for miles under 
greenswards and teeming orchards. The city 
of Zion gained at four o'clock, we listen to the 
repetition of Albany's confusion of hackmen, 
and finally secure the Walker House coach. 
At the hotel I find a letter awaiting me from 
Josie, which, of course, I eagerly read. 

Mrs. Murphy ordered a carriage, and we 
were driven by a cockney coachman all over 
the city, and, being glib of tongue and full of 
wit, we had double benefit in our sight- seeing. 
Temple Square incloses the tabernacle and 
temple, but their doors had just been closed, 
and we were deprived of an interesting sight. 
The Assembly House is also a feature in this 
square of fine buildings. Thence we viewed 
all the late Brigham Young's possessions, his 
own grounds being defended by an adobe and 
stone wall. The graveyard where lie his re- 
mains is in the center of the town almost, and 



SALT LAKE CITY. 159 

beside him repose six of his wives. "The rest 
are with the prophets." We were shown two 
of his daughters and a son and I think about 
a thousand sons-in-law and other connections. 
The Tithe house adjoins Brigham Young's 
dwelling, but the Endowment house has been 
burned down. The far-famed prophet Young 
had been the father of sixty-one children, but 
only eighteen were living at the time of his 
death — enough, however, to perpetuate his 
name. 

We saw three of the twelve disciples. There 
is nothing suggestive of religious dignity in 
their bearing or manner. Mormonism has 
been somewhat bettered of late years. The 
Edmunds Bill, considerable legislation, and 
Mrs. Walker's and Miss Kate Field's lectures 
have all contributed towards the amelioration 
of the deluded Mormon women, who formerly 
were the slaves of the elders. The number of 
wives is limited, and the husband is required 
to support all properly. It is said that some of 
the elders' wives agree perfectly, drive out to- 
gether, dine, and call, and tender to each the 
courtesy of refinement and respect, whereas 
other wives do not even glance at each other; 
it is a trial of temperament and character. 

From Prospect Hill we watched the sun sink- 
ing down the western sky, its brilliant gleams 



160 SNAP NOTES. 

reflected most gorgeously in the calm, broad 
waters of Great Salt Lake ; it was a beautiful 
picture. The Jordan winds its way to the lake. 

We are in the city of Zion ; the apostles are here. 
May it not be the New Jerusalem? Yet no, 
for the Jews are Gentiles here. Well, it is a fine 
city. The streets are one hundred and thirty- 
five feet wide, with twenty feet for sidewalks. 
The trees are thrifty, varied, and numerous. 
We are shown the residence of Bishop Scan- 
lan, built of brick, with stone front, also the 
church. 

After a look at Fort Douglas, the rough spurs 
of the Uintahs, the pass through which the 
hardy Mormons entered the valley, we return 
to the Walker and dine. We take a room for 
the night, and at 12:30 p. m. we are ready for 
the West-bound train, whereon Mrs. Murphy 
has secured a drawing room. Upon presenting 
our tickets, however, it is discovered that the 
drawing room has been sold in Chicago through 
to California, so we hearken to an animated 
discussion between the guilty agent and Mrs. 
Murphy, and the mistake is finally adjusted 
after we reach Ogden. They give us three 
lower berths, so, at two o'clock, we claim them, 
very weary-eyed and languid. 



CHAPTER XVIIL 

HOME AGAIN. 

TJuirsday, October S. 

A WOKE at Terrace, Nevada. The same old 
■^^^ bleak, bald pate of tlie prairie looms up be- 
fore us, and the wings of desolation, folded since 
we left the Colorado desert, have been flapped 
over this dreary, lonesome place. Our breakfast 
is served from the buffet. The porter informs us 
that we shall reach San Francisco at 9:15 to- 
morrow morning, which for me means that I 
gain the threshold of home in the evening, and 
be again amongst my loved ones. It seems so 
long since I left them, and in the quietude of 
that happy scene of serenity and love, I shall 
experience indescribable pleasure in relating 
the incidents of tliis tour and the enjo3'ment it 
has afforded me. 

We reached Elko at noon, and received the 
San F'rancisco papers, looking at them as into 
the faces of familiar acquaintances. I have 
felt ill all day, and as night draws her man- 
tle, am ready for repose. There are several 

11 (161) 



162 SNAP NOTES. 

peculiar cliaracters on board, who present a 
different phase of Hfe to those unsophisticated 
in its ways, as myself, and they are a source of 
disgust to us. 
Friday, October 9. 

During the night we passed over the Sierras, 
and I have again missed seeing them. At five 
o'clock this morning we stopped at Sacramento, 
and we rise, dress for sight-seeing, and behold 
the broad bosom of the Sacramento Valley 
bared before us. There is a familiar look to 
the country, and erelong we steam into Benicia, 
thence crossing on tlie Solano, whose motion is 
hardly perceptible. The serrated peninsula of 
Marin lies dreamily on our right, the calm blue 
waters of San Pablo laving its base, as they 
shine in the morning sunlight. 

At 9:15 we step off the ferryboat at the foot 
of Market Street, and friends near and dear 
greet us home, and we keenly realize that 

" 'Mid pleasures and palaces," etc., 
"There's no place like home." 

And now my companions go south to San 
Jose, and I turn north to San Rafael, each filled 
with happy memories of pleasure given and 
received^ 



o 







:MAR M :- 

c ST. AUGUSTINE 



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CONORS, 




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